Bali is so picturesque that you could be fooled into thinking it was a painted backdrop: rice paddies trip down hillsides like giant
steps, volcanoes soar through the clouds, the forests are lush and tropical, and the beaches are lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.
Recent tragic events have scared away many of those who simply saw Bali as a place for cheap beer. While the Bintang is still tasty and
plentiful, Bali's temples, ceremonies, beaches, mountains and passion for life are undiminished and more easily enjoyed than ever.
Just 8° south of the equator, Bali has a tropical climate - the average temperature hovers around 30°C (mid-80s°F) all year. Direct sun
feels incredibly hot, especially in the middle of the day. In the wet season, from October to March, the humidity can be very high and oppressive. The almost
daily tropical downpours come as a relief, then pass quickly, leaving flooded streets and renewed humidity. The dry season (April to September) is generally
sunnier, less humid and, from a weather point of view, the best time to visit, though downpours can occur at any time.
There are marked variations across the island. The coast is hotter, but sea breezes can temper the heat. As you move inland you also move
up, so the altitude works to keep things cool - at times it can get chilly up in the highlands, and a warm sweater or light jacket can be a good idea in
mountain villages such as Kintamani and Candikuning. The northern slopes of Gunung Batur always seem to be wet and misty, while a few kilometres away, the
east coast is nearly always dry and sunny.
Air-con is not really needed on Bali at night. A cool breeze always seems to spring up in the evening, and the open bamboo windows, so
common in Balinese architecture, make the most of the light breezes.
Bali Orchid Garden
Tel: (0361) 466 010 (info)
Given Bali's weather and volcanic soil, no one should be surprised that orchids grow very well. At this garden you can see thousands of them in a variety of
settings. Fans will love everything, others will enjoy the back areas which have a wild tropical feel. The gift shop sells orchid plants as well as books
about the flowers.
Web: www.baliorchidgardens.com
Gunung Kawi
In the bottom of this lush green valley near Tampaksiring is one of Bali's oldest and largest ancient monuments. Gunung Kawi consists of 10 rock-cut
candi (shrines): memorials cut out of the rock face in imitation of actual statues. They stand in 7m/23ft-high sheltered niches cut into the sheer
cliff face. A solitary candi (memorial) stands about a kilometre further down the valley to the south; this is reached by a trek through the rice
paddies on the western side of the river.
Museum Le Mayeur
Tel: (0361) 286 201 (info)
The Belgian artist Adrien Jean Le Mayeur de Merpes (1880-1958) arrived in Bali in 1932. Three years later he met and married the beautiful Legong dancer Ni
Polok when she was 15. Almost 90 Le Mayeur paintings are displayed inside the museum, with information in Indonesian and English. A free guidebook in English
is available and is filled with useful information and beautiful colour photos. Some of Le Mayer's early works are interesting, Impressionist-style paintings
from his travels in Africa, India, Italy, France and the South Pacific. The more recent works, from the 1950s, are in much better condition and show less
signs of wear and tear, with the vibrant colours that later became popular with young Balinese artists.
Pura Ulun Danu Bratan
This very important Hindu-Buddhist temple was founded in the 17th century. It is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of the waters, and is actually built on
small islands, which means it is completely surrounded by the lake. The temple is truly beautiful, with classical Hindu thatch-roofed meru (multiroofed
shrines) reflected in the water and silhouetted against the often cloudy mountain backdrop - one of the most common photographic images of Bali. For an
almost surreal experience, take a quiet paddle across the lake and see Pura Ulun Danu Bratan at sunrise - arrange it with a boatman the night before.
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Tel: (0361) 971 304 (info)
This cool and dense swathe of jungle, officially called Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, houses three holy temples. The interesting Pura Dalem Agung (Temple of
the Dead) is in the forest, for this is the inauspicious kelod side of town. Look for the Rangda figures devouring children at the entrance to the
inner temple. You can enter through one of the three gates: at the southern end of Monkey Forest Rd; further east, near the car park; or from the southern
side, on the lane from Nyuhkuning. One thing to remember - bring peanuts or ripe bananas for the long-tailed Balinese macaques who inhabit the sanctuary, but
don't hand the food directly to them. They might turn ferocious and bite if provoked.
Most international visitors arrive by air, either directly or via Jakarta, though island hoppers can catch frequent ferries from the
neighbouring islands of Java and Lombok. There are direct flights to Jakarta and Bali from major airline hubs in Asia such as Singapore, Bangkok and Hong
Kong. There are also direct flights from major Australian cities. The departure tax on international flights is about US$10.00. Bali is well connected to
most of Indonesia and has direct domestic flights to Java, Lombok and outlying islands on a daily basis. Fares have increased considerably in recent years
but are still good value. Domestic departure tax is US$2.00.
Transport from Ngurah Rai international airport, 2.5km (1.5mi) south of Kuta, is quite simple. Pay a set price at the airport taxi
counter, or walk across the airport car park and hail a metered cab outside the airport's roadway exit. The impecunious (and lightly laden) can walk straight
up the road to Kuta, although it's a more pleasant stroll along the beach. A ferry shuttles constantly between the western Balinese port of Gilimanuk and
Ketapang in eastern Java. Boat/bus combination tickets between Denpasar and Javanese cities can be purchased. Ferries between the eastern Balinese port of
Padangbai and Lembar on the west coast of Lombok depart throughout the day and a few ferries link Bali with other Indonesian islands.
The main forms of public transport on Bali are the cheap buses and bemos that run on more or less set routes within or between towns. If
you want your own transport, you can charter a bemo or rent a car, motorcycle or bicycle. The Balinese drive on the left, use their horns a lot and give way
to traffic pulling onto the road. Tourist shuttle buses, running between the major tourist centres, are more expensive than public transport but are also
more comfortable and convenient.
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