Seoul, the largest city and capital of South Korea, is the cultural, financial and political hub of the country. Battered by Japanese and Manchu invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries and flattened by the Korean War, most of its cityscape is modern. Overshadowed by high-rises and 12-lane freeways, Seoul yet retains a hidden history of centuries-old temples, palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens.

Seoul is an intriguing city transforming itself from the Yi Dynasty capital of the Hermit Kingdom to a major mover and shaker on the international scene, especially in the field of commerce and sports. Nowhere else is the Korean drive to come to terms with a turbulent and fractured past so evident.

Korea has four distinct seasons, with a wet monsoon/summer in the middle of the year, and a very cold winter from November to March. Seoul is beautiful at all times of the year. Autumn (September to November) is the most popular time, with fine weather and amazingly colourful forests. Winter - if you can stand the cold - is also magnificent. The ice and snow show off Seoul in a flattering way. During spring (March to May) Seoul has mild temperatures and flowers, including the magnificent cherry blossom, bloom everywhere. Summer is probably the least attractive time to visit - it's warm, humid and very wet

The worst times to be in Seoul as a traveller are during holiday periods, in particular July and August. Accommodation is expensive, transport is crowded and people are everywhere. Especially avoid Lunar New Year (first day of the first moon).

In the past, Korea did not cater for disabled travellers as Koreans with disabilities tended to stay at home, and there were few disabled foreign tourists. But in Seoul and some other cities this is changing. Most subway stations in Seoul now have lifts, elevators and toilets with wheelchair access and handrails. Tourist attractions, especially government-run ones, offer generous discounts or even free entry for disabled people and a helper.

A useful brochure in Seoul is the Accessible Seoul map, available from the KNTO office in Seoul. More information is available on www.easyaccess.or.kr.

Despite its tall buildings and neon lights, Seoul offers the visitor a wealth of cultural sights. The central city area is ringed with royal palaces, and around the old city gates are enormous bustling markets. Skyscrapers jostle with a maze of traditional-style Korean houses and inns.

63 Building
Tel: (02) 789 5663 (info)
Address: Yeouido
The 63 Building, the tallest and most stylish skyscraper in Seoul, is not as popular as it used to be. It's a 15-minute walk from the subway, and has three major attractions. Sea World Aquarium has penguins, reptiles and seals as well as turtles, sharks and other fish. The IMAX giant screen cinema provides headphones with an English-language version. The Observation Deck is up on the 60th floor. The best dining is at Plaza Fountain Buffet.

Agriculture Museum
Tel: (02) 2080 5727 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
A brand new museum that has imaginative displays such as glass floors, a mock-up of a painted tomb, and a traditional village complete with voices. It's a worthy effort but has no chance of persuading the young generation to become farmers, so the outlook for the industry is bleak despite the upbeat tone of the museum.

Amsa-Dong Prehistoric Settlement Site
Tel: (02) 3426 3867 (info)
Address: Gangdong-gu
This is Korea's largest Neolithic site and well worth a visit. Set in a park frequented by woodpeckers, you can see a thatched village of pit houses and look around the exhibition centre that has been built over the site. The 6000-year-old artefacts include pottery with comb designs - the Neolithic stone culture seems to have been remarkably uniform on different continents.

Anglican Church
Tel: (02) 738 8952 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
An imposing Renaissance-style church, built in the shape of a cross with Korean-style tiles on the roof - it's a fine example of architectural fusion. Work began in 1922 but the full design was not completed until 1996.

Bank of Korea Museum
Tel: (02) 759 4888 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
It is worth a quick visit to see the old coins and banknotes as well as the grand hall of the chateau-like Bank of Korea building (constructed in 1912 by the Japanese) where the exhibition is displayed.

Bongeunsa
Tel: (02) 511 6070 (info)
Address: Bongeunsaro, Gangnam-gu
Just north of the COEX Mall, the shrines and halls of this Buddhist temple are spread among a forested hillside and have a quieter, more secluded atmosphere than Jogyesa in Insadong, although somewhat marred by the car park. Founded in AD 794, the buildings have been rebuilt many times over the centuries. The oldest hall is Panjeon, constructed in 1856, which houses over 3000 150-year-old woodblocks with Buddhist scriptures and art carved into them. Near the entrance on the left is a small hut where an English-speaking volunteer guide may be available.

Bukchon Museum
Tel: (02) 747 3957 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
This hanok (traditional Korean one-storey wooden house with a tiled roof) is packed with curios and collectables, but is more of a shop than a museum as everything is for sale. Entry is free if you make a purchase, or buy an around ₩3000 cup of homemade tea.

Changdeokgung
Tel: (02) 762 8262 (info)
Address: Insadong
You cannot look around this World Heritage palace on your own, so you must join an English-speaking guide. The buildings follow Confucian principles of simplicity and harmony with nature. Like all Joseon palaces, it has a mountain behind it and a small stream in front - good feng shui. But the highlight is the wonderful Biwon (Secret Garden), where the library, poem-writing pavilions, square lily ponds and park-like setting create a perfectly tranquil rural atmosphere.

Cheondogyo Temple
Tel: (02) 732 8991 (info)
Address: Insadong
On the outside the headquarters of this Korean fusion religion is a handsome baroque-style, red-brick and stone church with a tower and spire, but inside it looks like a plain meeting hall with a piano but no altar, statues or paintings. It was completed in 1921 and was used as a centre of opposition to Japanese rule. Cheondogyo is a home-grown creed containing Buddhist, Confucian and Christian elements that was started in 1860 by Choe Suun.

Cheongwadae
Tel: (02) 737 5800 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
The Blue House is Korea's answer to America's presidential residence the White House. Back in 1968 a squad of 31 North Korean commandos was caught just 500m from the Blue House on a mission to assassinate President Park Chung-hee. The threat from the North has diminished but still remains, so security is tight. To see Cheongwadae, visitors must join a tour (Korean language only; passports required), which is free and lasts 80 minutes, but does not venture inside any important buildings and only visits the palatial grounds and Chilgung.
Web: www.president.go.kr

Children's Grand Park
Tel: (02) 450 9311 (info)
Address: Seondong-gu
Ask for a free map at the entrance to this large shady park with a rose garden, flower beds and fountains that has plenty to keep children busy and occupied. An amusement park has 30 fear-factor experiences for all ages, but some of the zoo animals - which include lions, tigers, elephants and bears - live in enclosures that are small by modern standards. Seperate tickets are required for the various attractions.

COEX Aquarium
Tel: (02) 6002 6214 (info)
Address: Yeongdongdaero, Teheran-ro
This is the largest aquarium in Seoul with 40,000 fish and other sea creatures in 90 tanks. You can see live coral, sharks, turtles, rays and evil-looking piranhas swimming around a huge tank. Exquisitely beautiful small creatures such as pulsating jellyfish, glass fish and sea horses are also on display.
Web: www.coexaqua.co.kr

Deoksugung
Tel: (02) 771 9951 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
Originally an aristocratic villa, Deoksugung became a palace in 1593 when King Seojo moved in (after all of Seoul's other palaces were destroyed during the Japanese invasion). The palace contains small gardens and ponds amid an extraordinary mixture of architectural styles. The changing of the guards (10:30, 14:00 & 15:00 Tue-Sun 15 Feb-31 Dec) is an impressive ceremony that involves 50 participants, who dress up as Joseon-era soldiers and bandsmen. It takes place either around the main entrance gate or over the road on Seoul Plaza.

Dongdaemun
Address: Jongno-Gu
Seoul's Eastern fortress gate, Dongdaemun, dates back to the 14th century, but the existing structure was built in 1869 and had to be renovated after being severely damaged during the Korean War when Seoul changed hands four times. Dongdaemun market starts at this gate.

Ewha Womans University Museum
Tel: (02) 3277 3151 (info)
Address: Sinchon
This modern museum in Sinchon has three floors of displays that vary but usually include traditional hanbok, centuries-old pottery, the history of the university and student art.
Web: museum.ewha.ac.kr

Gyeongbokgung
Tel: (02) 732 1931 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
Two of the grandest architectural sights in Seoul are here. The first is the two-storey, ornate Geunjeongjeon, the main palace building where kings were crowned, met foreign envoys and conducted affairs of state. It is best viewed from the imposing second entrance gate, Heungnyemun, which is guarded by soldiers in Joseon uniforms. With its double-tiered stone platform, flagstone courtyard and surrounding open-sided corridors, Geunjeongjeon is an impressive sight. Then walk left to Gyeonghoeru, a large raised pavilion resting on 48 stone pillars and overlooking an artificial lake with two small islands, which is almost as grand a scene. State banquets were held inside.

Hongneung Arboretum & Surrounds
Tel: (02) 961 2651 (info)
Address: Corner of Hoegiro & Hongneunggil, Dongdaemun-gu
Winding footpaths turn this 38-hectare arboretum, established in 1922 and packed with many varieties of trees and plants, into a pleasant maze that is popular with dating couples, nature lovers and keen photographers. It is only open on Sunday and picnics are not allowed. On the right is the Forestry Museum which has an original design containing exhibits on native trees and their uses, but little English description. From the subway exit take the first road on the right (Hoegiro), walk under the expressway and 600m from the subway exit is the Arboretum entrance on the left facing Hongneunggil.

Itaewonland Sauna
Tel: (02) 749 5115 (info)
Address: Itaewon
This luxurious jjimjilbang (Korean Sauna), spread over five floors, is the best in Itaewon. With separate sections for men and women, every customer is loaned a towel and T-shirt. A long list of pools, spa baths and massages is available including a green-tea beauty treatment.

Jeoldusan Martyrs Museum & Chapel
Tel: (02) 323 1950 (info)
Address: Sinchon
Jeoldusan means 'Beheading Hill' and is where up to 2000 Korean Catholics were executed in 1866 following a decree, signed by Regent Heungseon Daewongun (King Gojong's father), to kill all Catholics. The victims' bodies were thrown into the Han River and less than 40 of their names are known. A memorial to the martyrs, a garden, museum, memorial chapel and a statue of the first Korean priest, St Andrew Kim Dae-heon (1821-46) make up the site.

Jogyesa
Tel: (02) 725 6641 (info)
Address: Insadong
The largest Buddhist shrine in Seoul, Daeungjeon was built in 1938, but the design followed the late Joseon-dynasty style. Murals of scenes from Buddha's life and the carved floral latticework doors are two of its attractive features. You can follow the tradition of lighting a candle or incense stick and then walking around the seven-tiered pagoda to make a wish. Jogyesa is the headquarters of the Jogye sect, the largest in Korea, which emphasises Zen-style (Seon) meditation and the study of Buddhist scriptures as the best way to achieve enlightenment.

Jongmyo & Changgyeonggung
Tel: (02) 765 0195 (info) / (02) 762 4868 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
Surrounded by dense woodland are the impressive buildings of Jongmyo, which house the spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens and some of their most loyal government officials. Their spirits are believed to reside in a special hole bored into the wooden tablets. An English-speaking guide may be available at 10:00 and 15:30 (free, one hour).
Web: www.jongmyo.net

Knife Gallery
Tel: (02) 735 4430 (info)
Address: Insadong Eoreumgol-gil
In a basement is a weird and wonderful global collection of swords and knives along with other army equipment. There is an onsite shop, but good luck getting that Gurkha kukri or bag of throwing stars on the plane back home.

Kukkiwon
Tel: (02) 567 4988 (info)
Address: Gangnam-gu
The Kukkiwon dojang (hall) hosts a regular schedule of taekwondo displays, training courses and tournaments. Expect to see graceful movements, acrobatic high kicking that defies gravity and spectacular pine-board breaking. Saturday and Wednesday mornings are when demonstration teams practice, except during university holidays. The museum (admission free; 09:00 - 17:00 Mon-Fri) has photos, cups, medals and uniforms relating to the sport.
Web: www.kukkiwon.or.kr/index.jsp

Lock Museum
Tel: (02) 766 6494 (info)
Address: Daehangno
For people who like visiting unusual, small museums, up on the 4th floor is a well-lit display of antique locks. In the same rusty-looking building are two (free) exhibition halls that usually display metalwork.

Lotte World
Tel: (02) 411 4921 (info)
Address: Jamsil
A huge complex that includes an amusement park, cinema multiplex, department store, folk museum, shopping mall, ice-skating rink, hotel and countless restaurants, Lotte World Adventure & Magic Island is a mainly indoor Korean version of Disneyland. The scarier the ride, the longer the queue on busy days. The main section is indoors but Magic Island is outside in the middle of Seokcho lake. The all-year indoor ice-skating rink is the best in Seoul, the bowling alley has 16 lanes and the pool and four ball hall is next to the bowling alley. There's also a swimming pool that has a king slide and a cave sauna.
Web: www.lotteworld.com

Museum of Korean Buddhist Art
Tel: (02) 766 6000 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
The permanent exhibition is displayed in one section, and just down the street is the second section which hosts changing exhibitions. The entry price includes admission to both. The permanent exhibition is small but the paintings and carvings, many 200 years old, suggest that Korean Buddhist art is undervalued by the global art scene. The Yeonam teashop has homemade teas - hibiscus petal tea is worth trying.

Museum of Korean Embroidery
Tel: (02) 515 51114 (info)
Address: Gangnam-gu
Only a small amount is on show, but it includes exquisite examples of a neglected craft. In the 'good' old days nearly everything was embroidered - clothes, shoes, boxes, pillow-ends, screens, pin cushions, toys and thimbles. Delicate patchwork pojagi (wrapping cloths) had many uses and some were made out of silk or ramie (cloth made from pounded bark). Items are not described but illustrated books on Korean embroidery (in English) are on sale.

Museum of Korean Straw Handicrafts
Tel: (02) 743 8787 (info)
Address: Daehangno
In this quirky museum the masks, human figures, torches, bird catchers, bags, mats, cradles, chicken nests, rope, egg holders, and human and cattle shoes are all made of straw.

Namdaemun
Address: Myeong-Dong
The Great South Gate of Seoul fortress was originally constructed in 1398, rebuilt in 1447 and has often been renovated since then. Designated as National Treasure No 1, it's an impressive sight, especially when floodlit at night, and is a reminder of the once-mighty Joseon dynasty. The soldiers in Joseon uniforms that guard the gate (10:00 - 16:00 Wed-Mon) march around every 30 minutes, but are there for photographic rather than defense purposes. The famous day-and-night Namdaemun market that starts at the gate is also centuries old.

Namsangol Hanok Village
Tel: (02) 2266 9101 (info)
Address: Jung-gu
Five differing yangban (aristocratic) stone, wood and tile houses from the Joseon era have been moved here from different parts of Seoul. The architecture and furniture are austere and plain, and conjure up the lost world of Confucian gentlemen scholars who wielded calligraphy brushes rather than swords. A pleasant park and Time Capsule Sq adjoin the village.

National Assembly
Tel: (02) 788 3804 (info)
Address: Yeouido
This pillared building with a green roof was completed in 1975. Free tours (Korean language only) take only 15 minutes although they can take longer if the country's 299 elected representatives are in session. Full meetings are held in February, April and June, and from September to December.

National Folk Museum
Tel: (02) 3704 3114 (info)
Address: 1-1 Sejongno, Jongno-Gu
Outside the museum are shamanist stone statues and wooden posts that used to guard the entrances to villages. Inside, the clothing, games, rituals, handicrafts, food, housing and occupations of the Joseon era are displayed to illustrate life in the days back when a person's social class was signalled by what they wore.
Web: www.nfm.go.kr

National Museum Of Contemporary Art
Tel: (02) 2188 6000 (info)
Address: Gwacheon-si
This large and impressive art gallery is spread over three floors and also has sculptures in the garden. The outstanding exhibit is 'The More the Better' - a 1988 installation of 1000 flickering TV screens piled up into a pagoda shape by leading Korean artist, Paik Nam-june. The gallery of figurative art includes Kim Tschang-yeol's famous drops of water while the circular international gallery has a sequinned Buddha. Make of that what you will.
Web: www.moca.go.kr/index.htm

National Museum Of Korea
Tel: (02) 2077 9000 (info)
Address: Yongsan-gu
This grand, marble-lined, modernist building cleverly channels plenty of natural light to show off Korea's ancient treasures. The museum took eight years to construct, finally opening in October 2005. Walking past the reflecting pond by the entrance, the west wing of this spacious museum has a hands-on, fun-filled, young children's section and houses the 800-seat Yong (Dragon) theatre which has hosted concerts, musicals and even a circus.
Web: www.museum.go.kr/kor/index.jsp

National Palace Museum
Tel: (02) 3701 7500 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
This spacious museum is in the front courtyard of Gyeongbokgung, but is run separately. English descriptions are brief but an audio guide is around ₩1000. The museum provides the usual uncritical look at certain aspects of the lives and significance of the 27 Joseon kings, including scientific inventions and Jongmyo ritual metalware. Displays highlight the wonderful artistic skills of the Joseon era - royal seals, illustrations of court ceremonies, and the gold-embroidered hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) and exquisite hairpins worn by the queens and princesses. Downstairs is a small shop and café.
Web: www.gogung.go.kr/eng

N'Seoul Tower
Tel: (02) 772 1626 (info)
Address: Namsan Pk, South Central Seoul
The peak of Mt Namsan used to be crowned with fortifications, but they are long gone and have since been replaced by the Seoul Tower. The tower stretches 480m (1574ft) above sea level and houses several cafes and restaurants (one of which is revolving) and an observation deck. The views are marvellous, especially at night. Be sure to run your ticket through the scanner beside the elevator to activate a reservation number for the lift; it's a great system to preserve order on days when the lobby is filled with impatient crowds.

Rodin Gallery
Tel: (02) 2259 7781 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
This unusual glass pyramid building has two large sculptures by French sculptor Rodin on permanent display plus changing contemporary art exhibitions in another two galleries.

Sejong Gallery
Tel: (02) 399 1111 (info)
Address: Sejongno, Gwanghwamun
It's worth popping into this gallery, which is divided into three sections: on two floors in the building south of the main theatre and in the subway station behind. It exhibits changing modern art shows.

Sejong University Museum
Tel: (02) 3408 3077 (info)
Address: Gwangjin-gu
The best of the university folk museums, Sejong has a superb collection, especially the well-displayed hanbok that takes up an entire floor and includes outstanding royal clothing. Rarely visited, the museum should be much more popular - the furniture chests, palanquins, shamanist items, and the wooden, leather and silk shoes for the different social classes all present vivid images of the feudal past.

Seodaemun Prison
Tel: (02) 303 9750 (info)
Address: Seodaemun-gu
This prison is a stark reminder of the sufferings of Korean independence fighters who challenged Japanese colonial rule (1910-45). It contains an entrance gate, two watchtowers, a wooden execution house, interrogation cells and eight of the original 18 red-brick prison buildings. Built to house 500 prisoners, up to 3000 were packed inside during the height of the anti-Japanese protests in 1919. Altogether 40,000 freedom fighters passed through the entrance gate and at least 400 died or were killed inside. You can see photos and videos of the harsh conditions and go inside the bleak cells of one block.

Seolleung Park Royal Tombs
Tel: (02) 568 1291 (info)
Address: Jamsil
The spirit tablets of the Joseon kings and queens are in Jongmyo, but their tombs are scattered all over Seoul. The tombs are elaborate but mostly underground, and were the scene of rituals to remember the dead who were officially mourned for three years according to Confucian rules. The tombs of King Seongjong (ruled 1469-94), his third wife, Queen Jeonghyeonwanghu, and his second son, King Jeongjong (ruled 1506-44), are in this wooded park. From subway Exit 8 walk straight ahead for 500m (five minutes) and the entrance is on the right.

Seoul Arts Centre
Tel: (02) 580 1300 (info)
Address: Seocho-gu
This sprawling arts complex has a circular opera house, with a roof shaped like a Korean nobleman's hat, which also houses the 700-seat Towol Theatre and the smaller Jayu Theatre. The national ballet and opera companies are based here. Music House consists of a large concert hall and a smaller recital hall and is home to the national choir, the Korea and Seoul symphony orchestras and the Seoul performing arts company. Also part of the complex is the Korea Film Archives, with a cinema that sometimes shows programmes of classic Korean movies with English subtitles.
Web: www.sac.or.kr/eng

Seoul Grand Park
Tel: (02) 500 7114 (info)
Address: Gwacheon-si
The excellent and extensive zoo (Seoul's best) is set amongst forested hillsides. A river runs through the park and families picnic along its shady banks. You can hike along a number of marked trails that stretch for 2km (1.2mi) to 6km (3.7mi). The zoo is home to a long list of exotic creatures, including the popular African ones.
Web: grandpark.seoul.go.kr

Seoul Land Amusement Park
Tel: (02) 504 0011 (info)
Address: Gwacheon-si
Keep the children happy all day at Seoul's biggest and best amusement park with five themed areas, special events (the Sky Pirates show with stuntmen leaping from high-up into a small pool is heart-stopping and spectacular) and adrenalin rides - the Sky-X bungy swing, the shot drop and the two rollercoasters are wicked.
Web: eng.seoulland.co.kr

Seoul Museum of Art
Tel: (02) 2124 8800 (info)
Address: 37 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu
This art gallery opened in 2002, and is considered one of the best in Korea. It puts on interesting and varied exhibitions that reflect every style of modern art in Seoul. The shows change regularly. Its ultra-modern and bright galleries hide behind the brick-and-stone facade of the 1927 Supreme Court Building.
Web: seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr

Seoul Racecourse
Tel: (02) 509 2309 (info)
Address: Gwacheon-si
Every weekend, thousands head south to the horse racing. The spectators used to be mainly men, but racing authorities have had success in promoting racing as a family or couple activity. Huge screens on the track show the odds, and close-ups of the horses. Short 1km to 2km races occur every half-hour with evening racing in July and August. Foreigners can make use of a smart and comfortable suite on the 4th floor in section S.

Statue of Hammering Man
Address: Gwanghwamun
The giant, moving metallic shadow of a hammering man towers five storeys above the street. Funded by a local insurance company, the super-blacksmith has been silently hammering since 2002. It was made out of 50 tons of steel by American artist Jonathon Borofsky (www.borofsky.com), whose art is humanist but mechanical, monumental but intriguing, simple but thought-provoking. Is work just a meaningless ritual that we allow to dominate our lives?

Tapgol Park
Address: Gwanghwamun
'Tapgol' means 'pagoda,' which refers to the 10-tier, 12m-high stone pagoda in the park that is all that remains of Wongaksa, a temple that stood here but was destroyed in 1515. Constructed in 1471, the pagoda is adorned with wonderful Buddhist carvings, but unfortunately the ugly protective glass box around it spoils its ancient beauty and charm. Opened in 1897, Tapgol was Seoul's first Western-style park and is a symbol of Korean resistance to Japanese rule.

Ttukseom Seoul Forest
Tel: (02) 3708 2588 (info)
Address: Seongdong-gu
This new park, a 12-minute walk from Ttukseom station (don't confuse it with Ttukseom Resort station), is a pleasant area to walk or cycle around and enjoy a picnic or a beer in natural surroundings. It used to be a hunting ground in Joseon times, then became a horse racing track and sports fields, but is now a regenerating forest. Among the trees and lakes are fountains, a poetic photographic exhibition on the theme of trees, and a mirror pond.

Unhyeongung
Tel: (02) 766 9090 (info)
Address: Insadong
The modest and plain natural-wood design of this minor palace reflects the austere tastes of Heungseon Daewongun (1820-98), King Gojong's stern and conservative father whose policies included massacring Korean Catholics, excluding foreigners from Korea and closing Confucian schools. Rooms are furnished and mannequins display the dress styles of the time. The marriage of King Gojong to Queen Myeongseong (Queen Min) is reenacted here, on-site.

War Memorial & Museum
Tel: (02) 709 3139 (info)
Address: Yongsan-gu
This huge museum documents the history of warfare in Korea and has an especially good section on the Korean War. Many items are only vaguely dated, but there is a replica of one of Admiral Sun-sin's famous turtle warships. It takes at least three hours to look round everything so arrive well before closing.
Web: www.warmemo.or.kr

World Cup Stadium & Mall
Tel: (02) 2128 2002 (info)
Address: Seodaemun-gu
Costing US$151 million, the spectacular 64,000-seat World Cup Stadium was built to stage the opening ceremony and some of the matches of the 2002 World Cup soccer finals, which Korea co-hosted with Japan. Under the stadium is CGV (1544 1122), a five-screen cinema multiplex showing films from 10:00 to after midnight. Also in the mall are many small shops, a food court, Starbucks and Carrefour, a giant hypermarket with food and household goods.

Shopping in Seoul can include anything from dried squid and ginseng to mobile phones and DVDs. Explore the teeming markets for bargains - it's where the locals shop. If it's bargains you're after, Seoul's main strength is in Korean-produced consumer goods such as clothing, shoes and leather goods.

Abby's Book Nook
Tel: (02) 795 4253 (info)
Address: Itaewon
Now centrally located, this excellent second-hand, 2nd floor bookshop has helpful staff, stacks of books that sell for half the cover price, and others that go for around ₩2000 or less. It also has a café.

ABC Mart
Tel: (02) 771 7777 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
The biggest and best place for shoes with thousands of pairs on a number of floors - enough to make Imelda Marcos swoon. Another branch is at the other end of Myeong-dong.

Bandi & Luni's
Tel: (02) 2198 3000 (info)
Address: Insadong
This new and very large bookshop with seats has one of Seoul's best selections of books in English (section D2). Another branch is in the COEX Mall.

Beautiful Store
Tel: (02) 3676 1004 (info)
Address: Byeolgung-gil, Insadong
Bargain hunters love the second-hand clothing (around ₩2000 per item) as well as the household goods, while upstairs are reasonably priced artworks, CDs and a few English-language books. All profits go to charity. There is another store in Hongik in B1, next to Merae Plaza.

Central City Mall
Tel: (02) 6282 0114 (info)
Address: Gangnam-gu
A popular mall next to the express bus terminal that includes Shinsegae department store (3479 1234; 10:30 - 08:00) and Youngpoong Bookshop (595 4700; 09:30 - 22:00 Mon-Sat, 10:00 - 21:00 Sun) where books in English are on the 2nd floor in Sections E1 and E2. A food court and the Central 6 Cinema multiplex are other attractions.
Web: www.centralcityseoul.co.kr

Coex Mall
Tel: (02) 6002 5312 (info)
Address: Jamsil
This huge underground mall contains innumerable shops, including an excellent bookshop, record store and department store, but don't expect many bargains.
Web: www.coexmall.com/language/en

Crow
Tel: (02) 312 8392 (info)
Address: Sinchon
Body piercing shops in Seoul are as rare as hen's teeth, but piercing is available in this little hut of a shop that sells studs, henna tattoos and more.

Dongdaemun Market
Tel: (02) 2261 2192 (info)
Address: Between Jogno & Cheonggyejeonno, Jongno-Gu
This huge market is famous for the thousands of small shops packed into four neighbouring high-rise shopping malls. Fashion and textiles rule the area, but there are also massages and a 10-screen multiplex cinema. While many shops close on Sunday, the four big malls stay open. Inside the old soccer stadium is the undercover Pungmul flea market.

Dynasty Tailor
Tel: (02) 3785 3035 (info)
Address: Itaewon
Dynasty has a good reputation and charges reasonable prices - pure wool custom-made suits start at around ₩250 ,000 and take about three days to make.

Filipino Sunday Market
Address: Daehangno
Join the jolly Filipino community in Seoul who gather here in this lively Little Manila every Sunday to meet each other and buy CDs, DVDs, call-back phone cards and second-hand mobile phones. Chefs in the back of vans cook up tropical Filipino treats - cassava cakes, adobo chicken, pancit noodles, longaniza sausage, purple rice, stews and banana spring rolls.

Gajukgongyebang
Tel: (02) 392 4453 (info)
Address: Sinchon
Hand-crafted leather goods are made on the spot by an elderly artisan in this tiny shop.

Galleria
Tel: (02) 344 9414 (info)
Address: Apgujeongno, Gangnam-gu
Experience brand-name nirvana in this luxury boutique department store which packs dozens of world-famous fashion designer stores into two buildings, one of which is covered in plastic discs that look psychedelic at night. On top of the west wing is an Italian restaurant with a vineyard patio with set meals.

Galleria Concos
Tel: (02) 390 4114 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
Experience brand-name nirvana next to Seoul train station in this brand new department store where top world designers sell status and style to folk burdened by too much spare cash.

Gyeongdong Market
Tel: (02) 962 3582 (info)
Address: Dongdaemun-gu
Walk straight ahead from the subway and you'll soon be struck by the odours of the traditional Asian herbal remedies that this market specialises in. The leaves, herbs, roots, flowers and mushrooms piled up in the shops and stalls are all medicinal. Bark is sold to be made into soup, while jine is a long millipede that is boiled to make a soup or eaten dry.

Hongdae Artists' Saturday Market
Tel: (02) 765 0501 (info)
Address: Hongik
With its hair-braiding stalls, tarot-card readers, handmade jewellery, hand-painted hats and T-shirts, appliqué bags, fans with a political message and soap made from rice and honey, this small Saturday market in the park outside Hongik University has a '60s Woodstock feel. Singers and pasty-faced magicians put on shows in the entertainment corner.

Huckleberry Farms
Tel: (02) 514 3800 (info)
Address: Gangnam-gu
Organic produce is rare in Seoul but this large health food shop stocks Seoul's widest range of organic food and drinks - including Founders organic beer from New Zealand (around ₩7900).

Hwanghak-dong Flea Market
Address: Dongdaemun-gu
Nicknamed Dokkaebi (Goblin Market), this is where you'll find everything from DVDs to shoes to Buddhas. It's like a giant garage sale where clothes can be half price and latest models discounted by as much as 30%. All kinds of weird bric-a-brac and collectables are on display. More elusive however, are the 'so-called' goblins.

Iriver
Tel: (02) 766 7778 (info)
Address: Daehangno
All the latest miniature miracle MP3 players and accessories are on display from Korea's top manufacturer, which has 10% of the global market and is adding new features almost every month.

Janganpyeong Antiques & Collectables Market
Address: Dongdaemun-gu
Over a hundred small shops are packed into four arcades, and they're so full of old furniture, paintings, embroidery, pottery and stone statues that customers can hardly squeeze inside. They're pretty quiet compared to other markets but if you love browsing - from yangban (aristocrat) pipes and hats to fish-shaped locks and Buddhas it's worth it.

Jewel Button
Tel: (02) 733 9394 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
The award-winning handmade jewellery designs are created by two top Seoul designers.

Kim Young Joo Milano
Tel: (02) 545 2514 (info)
Address: Jamsil
A boutique of a well-known local designer who is famous for adapting traditional hanbok, the striking traditional clothing that followed the principle of unadorned modesty, into a modern style.

Kukjae Embroidery
Tel: (02) 732 0830 (info)
Address: Insadong
This shop sells every type of wonderful Korean-style embroidery and all of it is handmade. The staff speak English and are embroidery experts who can answer your questions.

Kyobo Bookshop
Tel: (02) 3973 5100 (info)
Address: Gwanghwamun
With more titles than a medium-sized library, Kyobo is the largest bookshop in Seoul. It boasts an English-language information desk and has a room stacked floor to ceiling with books in English (and a few other European languages). It also has large, well-organised selections of CDs from various genres - and a fast-food area.

Lotte Department Store
Tel: (02) 771 2500 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
This has four classy stores linked together - the department store, Lotte Young Plaza, Lotte Avenuel and a duty-free shop - and includes a multiplex cinema , food court, hotel and restaurants. It's almost impossible not to get lost inside this busy-busy beehive but it's an experience.

Lotte Mart
Tel: (02) 390 2500 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
A mega discount supermarket with a household goods section that is spread over two floors next to Seoul train station. Come here for good-deal gifts and souvenirs, particularly in the food and drink line.

Migliore
Tel: (02) 2124 0005 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
Always teeming with teenage-looking trendsetters, this high-rise Myeong-dong mall is packed with fashion shops, has a food court on the 7th floor and an outdoor stage by the entrance.

Mythos
Tel: (02) 322 6698 (info)
Address: Hongik
All the Siwan label music (mainly European folk rock) can be found here as well as rock, world and progressive music. If the Strawbs are your bag, drop by.

Nakwon Musical Instruments Arcade
Tel: (02) 924 0604 (info)
Address: Insadong
On the 2nd floor are 200 small shops that sell all kinds of musical instruments and equipment. Local musicians may put on impromptu shows as they choose their instruments. Be careful about fakes.

Namdaemun Market
Tel: (02) 2128 7800 (info)
Address: Myeong-Dong
This huge night-and-day market dates back to the 15th century and has thousands of shops and stalls selling ginseng, dried seaweed, clothes, shoes, accessories, hiking gear, watches, handicrafts, sunglasses, spectacles and contact lenses. The variety and cheap prices attract both tourists and locals and food stalls offer cheap meals for the adventurous. Different sections have different opening hours.

Noryangjin Fish Market
Tel: (02) 814 2211 (info)
Address: Yeouido
All kinds of marine life swim around in tanks and bowls in this covered market. Large crabs, rays, tuna and shellfish are on display along with more exotic species such as sea cucumbers and sea squirts - the orange one is called meongge. For stalls that will grill or steam what you buy fresh from the market, take the exit from the subway station, cross the bridge over the train tracks and go down the stairs into the market.

Purple Record
Tel: (02) 336 3023 (info)
Address: Hongik
All music genres are covered in Purple Records, a well-established record store that appeals to local art students and is always worth a browse. Open until midnight.

Queen Liz
Tel: (02) 337 3843 (info)
Address: Hongik
Ladies can buy a drink in this beauty café with violet velour armchairs, and then use all their make-up and cosmetics for free. If it all goes wrong you can pay for a professional make-up by Lee Eun-im who trained in France and speaks English. A finger package - nail care and colouring plus a finger massage - is worth the cost. It's on the 4th floor above US 66 bar.

Record Forum
Tel: (02) 323 9565 (info)
Address: Hongik
Despite being a small record store that has hardly any room for customers, Record Forum has a selection guaranteed to interest jazz and blues enthusiasts.

Seoul Selection Bookshop
Tel: (02) 734 9565 (info)
Address: 105-2, Sagan-dong, Gwanghwamun
Run by Hank Kim, this is the friendliest place to buy English books on Korean culture along with Korean CDs and DVDs. Staff can advise on which DVDs to buy - or you can hire them. Coffee, second-hand books and free Internet access are available too. Every Saturday morning they screen a Korean DVD with English subtitles. See the website for 'what's on'.
Web: www.seoulselection.com

Star Market
Tel: (02) 792 7603 (info)
Address: Itaewon
The sassy style and low prices lure customers inside this new youth-oriented fashion store and café that employs Russian staff who look like they moonlight in hostess bars.

Taste Maximum
Tel: (02) 3444 7021 (info)
Address: Gangnam-gu
Up-and-coming Seoul fashion designer Kim Gyu-sik and his associates have a cute boutique here in Apgujeong and in Lotte department store in Myeong-dong.

Tea Museum
Tel: (02) 515 2350 (info)
Address: Apgujeongno, Gangnam-gu
Sip unusual teas from around the globe in this tiny, antique-filled teashop in Apgujeong with over 50 herb, flower, fruit and leaf teas (and teapots) for sale. South African rooibos teas are popular.

Techno Mart
Tel: (02) 3424 3000 (info)
Address: Jamsil
Electronic gear takes up seven floors of this high-rise next to Gangbyeon station. It's less overwhelming and easier to find your way around than Yongsan Electronics Market. On the 9th floor is a relaxing outdoor area with views of the Han River, while on the 10th floor is the CGV Gangbyeon multiplex cinema.

What The Book
Tel: (02) 797 2342 (info)
Address: Itaewon
This new bookshop, run by a couple of young and helpful expats, sells mainly second-hand books. They stock thousands of books at reasonable prices, and add a rare touch of culture to the Itaewon scene.

Yongsan Electronics Market
Address: Yongsan-gu
The Yongsan Electronics Market is probably the largest electronics market in Asia, with 5000 small shops spread around almost a dozen buildings. Everything from household appliances to the latest Nokia, audio-visual equipment, computers and computer accessories are on sale. If you can plug it in, you can find it here.

Walking tours should be high on your list, just to get a feel for the city and see some of the sights. Cycling is another great way to combine exercise and sightseeing. Both traditional Korean-style archery and the Western form are practised in Seoul. Archery ranges are usually found out of town.

Sauna
Many saunas are open 24 hours a day, but they are segregated and some only have facilities for men. More luxurious male-only saunas are available downtown.

Health and beauty tours in Seoul are popular with Japanese tourists, but these upmarket facilities are expensive. Less-expensive options with sauna, exercise room and indoor swimming pools can be found a little further out of downtown Seoul.

Golf
Golf courses near Seoul are usually expensive and members-only, so it's probably best to stick to the driving ranges, which you can find all over Seoul as well as in some top-end hotels.

Swimming
The best places for swimming are the sandy beaches of the unspoilt islands scattered off Incheon in the West Sea. In the hot humid months of July and August, outdoor swimming pools open in the parks along Hangang.

Large indoor pools are available at Lotte World and Olympic Park and are usually open to the public in the afternoons. Most luxury hotels have 25m (82ft) indoor pools and some are available to non-guests.

Cycling
Cycle paths line both banks of the Han River and bicycles can be rented in many of the parks along it. Hire a bike on Yeouido from a rental hut near the swimming pool in Hangang Park, or near the ferry boat terminal in Yeouido Park. Padlocks and bicycle helmets are not supplied and some form of ID is required.

Watersports
Along the Han River in summer, swimming pools, paddle boats, windsurfing, jet-skiing and water-skiing can all be enjoyed.

A typical night out involves three stops: Dinner with beer or soju, followed by more refreshments and then it's time to sing. Singing rooms, or noraebang are wildly popular and a great place to show off your vocal talents. Every singing room comes with a song catalogue that almost always has a good selection of English-language pop sings ranging from the Beatles to the Beastie Boys.

You won't have any problem eating well in Seoul, with a choice of Korean, Chinese and Japanese cuisines, other Asian flavours, and a growing Western-influenced food scene. The only difficulty you might have, on the other hand, is deciding what to eat.

Accommodation-wise, Seoul is beginning to move upmarket, with many of the dirt-cheap guesthouses raising standards and prices. There are the usual air-conditioned towers for the affluent and a good handful of comfortable options in between.

Most major international airlines fly into Incheon International Airport (60km/37mi from Seoul), and the two Korean airlines, Asiana Airlines and Korean Air (KAL), fly both domestic and international routes.

There are no international buses leading to or from Seoul, but there's no shortage of long-distance buses to get you across the country. The main station is the express bus terminal, on the southern side of the Han River.

There are no international trains to Seoul, but South Korea has an extensive rail network operated by Korea National Railroad (KNR). Long-distance share taxis also operate from the station, Incheon ferry terminal, and the express bus terminal.

Seoul's subway system is modern, fast, frequent, clean, safe and cheap, but try to avoid rush hour. Seoul also has a comprehensive and cheap city bus system that operates from around 05:30 to 24:00.

Driving a vehicle is something to avoid in Seoul because of the traffic jams, the lack of street names, directional signs and parking places, and the unpredictability of other road users. Regular taxis are a good deal and are cheaper than the bus or subway for three people who want to make a short trip.

GMT/UTC +9 (Standard Time)

Metric

220V 60Hz

+82

Official: Korean

South Korean Won (₩)

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