The most striking aspect of Japan’s capital city is its sheer level of energy. Tokyo is a place where the urgent rhythms of consumer culture collide with the quieter moments that linger from older traditions. It is hectic madness leavened by the most Zenic of calms.

While it's true Tokyo’s exciting vibe has a somewhat depressing flip side - shoebox housing estates and office blocks traversed by overhead expressways crowded with traffic - Tokyo remains a glittering example of the 'miracle' of post-WWII Japan.

Tokyo kicks off its year with high, cold winter days and, occasionally, snowfalls. Though temperatures sometimes drop below freezing, in general the winter months are reasonable with the right kind of clothing. Spring brings pleasant, warm days. Summer is hot and muggy. The temperature and humidity are at their worst in August and late June can see torrential rains that pound the city during some monsoon seasons. After spring, autumn is the most pleasant season. Temperatures cool down to a cosy level and days are often clear and fine.

Blooming cherry blossoms should be reason enough to visit Tokyo in spring. Likewise, the mellow hues of autumn also provide a poignant example of the Japanese aesthetic. The muggy summer is not for everyone; just remember there's roughly 5500 persons per sq km (over 14,000 per sq mi)! It might also be wise to avoid an even more crowded Tokyo during the Golden Week national holiday, from 29 April to 5 May.

Attitudes towards people with disabilities have vastly improved in the last few years. While the city's size and complexity makes it challenging for those with visual or hearing impairments or with restricted mobility, buildings built in the last 15 years tend to have accessible facilities.

Azabu-Jūban Onsen
Tel: (03) 3404 2610 (info)
Taking a bath may not sound like your idea of an evening's entertainment, but a good sentō (public bath) or onsen (hot spring) is more than just a place to wash; it's a place to relax, socialise and forget about the world outside. This is an upmarket hot-spring bath popular with visitors to Tokyo. Don't be alarmed - the rust-coloured water is said to have curative powers.

Beer Museum Yebisu
Tel: (03) 5423 7255 (info)
Run by Sapporo Breweries, this museum has lots of good exhibits on the brewing process, but the real pull is the Tasting Lounge, where you can sample Sapporo's various limited-edition brews. Sorry, no freebies here - it's around ¥200 per glass or around ¥400 for a sampler of four - but that's still quite a deal.
Web: www.sapporobeer.jp/english/guide/yebisu

Benten-Dō
Tel: (03) 3821 4638 (info)
Take a stroll down the causeway in Ueno-kōen leading to the island on which Benten-dō stands. The temple is dedicated to Benzaiten, the Buddhist goddess of the arts, wisdom, the sea and the protector of children. More interesting than the temple itself is its location and the opportunity to see the birds and botany that thrive around the pond.

Chingodō-Ji
This quiet little shrine on the banks of Dembō-in pays tribute to tanuki - the 'raccoon dog' tricksters who figures in Japanese mythology. Shape-shifting tanuki are normally depicted with enormous testicles on which they can fly. It is located in Asakusa, near the famous Kaminarimon and Sensō-ji Temple.

Complex
Tel: (03) 5411 7510
In the shadow of Roppongi Hills, this aptly named building will give a brief glimpse into the Tokyo art scene. Several of the best commercial galleries in town inhabit the five-storey structure, with a mix of graphic and painterly contemporary styles in firmly established galleries as well as newer standouts.

Criminology Museum Of Meiji University
Tel: (03) 3296 4431 (info)
Covering centuries of crime and punishment in Japan, this museum will fascinate both the criminally minded and the morbidly curious. While there isn't much English signage, the wood-block prints and torture devices are self-explanatory. From the stations, walk downhill on Meidai-dōri. The Daigaku Kaikan building will be on your right, on the corner just before the huge Meiji University building.

Dembō-In
Tel: (03) 3842 0181 (info)
Adjacent to the Sensō-ji precinct is Dembō-in, a temple with an attached garden. Inside this secret sanctuary there's a picturesque pond and a replica of a famous Kyoto teahouse. Although it's not open to the public, you can make an appointment to visit by calling a few days ahead to the temple office (to the left of the Five-Storey Pagoda).

Edo Shitamachi Traditional Crafts Museum
Tel: (03) 3842 1990 (info)
This hall is a wonderful place to view the handicrafts that continue to flourish in Shitamachi. The gallery on the 2nd floor of this museum displays a rotating selection of works (such as fans, lanterns, knives, intricate woodcarvings and glass) by neighbourhood artists, and crafts demonstrations take place around 12:00 on most weekend days.

Finlando Sauna
Tel: (03) 3209 9196 (info)
This is a huge 24-hour complex of baths and steam rooms right in the middle of Kabukichō sleaze. This is a good place - for men only - to escape the madness of the streets outside, or to spend the night if you've missed your train. Exit east at Shinjuku JR Station.

Fuji TV
Tel: (03) 5500 8888 (info)
Designed by the late, great Kenzō Tange, the Fuji TV headquarters building is recognisable by the 90-degree angles of its scaffoldinglike structure, topped with a 1200-tonne ball. You can actually go into the ball, which is a terrific observation deck. Pick up an English guide at the dog bone (err, desk?) out front, for information on a self-guided tour.

Ginza Graphic Gallery
Tel: (03) 3571 5206 (info)
Excellent exhibitions with an emphasis on graphic design are this gallery's forte. The gallery also hosts workshops and talks by visiting artists, covering everything from tiny typography to monumental architecture.
Web: www.dnp.co.jp/gallery/ggg/index_e.html

Hama-Rikyū-Teien
Tel: (03) 3541 0200 (info)
The shōgun used to have this magnificent place to themselves when it was Hama Rikyū, 'the beach palace'. Now mere mortals can enjoy this wonderful garden, one of Tokyo's best. Sometimes known as the Detached Palace Garden, it is impossibly elegant and a must for garden aficionados. Consider approaching it from Asakusa via the Sumida-gawa cruise.

Hanazono-Jinja
Tel: (03) 3200 3093 (info)
Nestled in ultra-urban, high-rise Shinjuku is this quiet, unassuming shrine. Hanazono-jinja is particularly pleasant when it's lit up in the evening, but it also makes for a quick escape from the Kabukichō seediness. Sundays bring a flea market (open 08:00 to 16:00 ) to the shrine grounds, a good place to hunt for various vintage wares.

Hie-Jinja
Tel: (03) 3581 2471 (info)
One of the casualties of WWII bombing was Hie-jinja, which dates back to 1659 in its present location. Though the shrine itself isn't a major attraction, the highlight is the walk up, through a 'tunnel' of red torii (shrine gate). It's also the backdrop for one of Japan's most spectacular matsuri (festivals). Look for the concrete plaza-style entrance on Sotobori-dōri.
Web: www.hiejinja.net/jinja/english/index.html

Idemitsu Art Museum
Tel: (03) 3213 9402 (info)
Most famous for its collection of work by the Zen monk Sengai, this superb, eclectic collection of Chinese and Japanese art is brought to you courtesy of a petroleum zillionaire. There are also lovely views of the Imperial Palace from the museum, which is next to the Imperial Theatre.

Imperial Palace East Garden
Tel: (03) 3213 2050 (info)
One of the nearest emergency exits from Ginza street chaos, this garden (known as the Kōkyo Higashi Gyoen) is the only quarter of the palace proper that is open to the public. The Edo-period watchtower, Fujimi-yagura, was designed to provide the aristocracy with a handy view of Mt Fuji. The store inside the garden sells a good map for around ¥150.

Jakotsu-Yu
Tel: (03) 3841 8645 (info)
Jakotsu-yu is a wonderful little neighbourhood onsen (hot spring) with mineral-rich dark water at a hot-hot-hot 45° C. This onsen has a small rotemburo (outdoor bath) with a garden setting. From Kokusai-dōri, make a right into the second alley north of Kaminarimon-dōri, then slip into the first narrow alley on the right.

Jingū Stadium
Tel: (03) 3404 8999 (info)
Jingū Baseball Stadium was originally built to host the 1964 Olympics and is where the Yakult Swallows are based. Baseball season runs from April through to the end of October; check the Japan Times to see who's playing.

Jingū-Gaien
Tel: (03) 3401 0312 (info)
The grounds of Jingū-gaien, the Meiji-jingū Outer Gardens, house both the Jingū Baseball Stadium and the National Stadium. But the grounds themselves make a great place for a run or walk in autumn, when the gingko trees lining the main promenade Icho-Namiki-dōri turn bright yellow.

Kannon Onsen (Hot Springs)
Tel: (03) 3844 4141 (info)
Look for the ivy-covered exterior of this large, traditional bathhouse. The water here is a steamy 40 degrees Celsius, and Asakusa's historic ambience makes this a great place for a soul-soothing soak.

Kiyomizu Kannon-Dō
This red temple, up the path from the Takamori Saigō statue, was modelled after Kiyomizu-dera in Kyoto. During Ningyō-kuyō, women wishing to conceive a child leave a doll here for Senjū Kannon (the 1000-armed goddess of mercy), and the accumulated dolls are ceremonially burnt each 25 September. Take the Shinobazu exit at Ueno JR Station.

Koishikawa Kōrakuen
Tel: (03) 3811 3015 (info)
A beautiful amalgam of Japanese and Chinese landscape design, this mid-17th-century garden is left off most tourist itineraries. That's a shame, because it's one of Tokyo's best gardens; but it's also a blessing, since you'll be far from the maddening crowds. You can buy an excellent English map at the garden's entrance.

Kōrakuen Amusement Park
Tel: (03) 5800 9999 (info)
Adrenaline junkies of all ages will enjoy the exciting old-school rollercoasters at this amusement park as well as the newer, high-tech Geopolis side of the park that includes the Geopanic indoor rollercoaster. Once your equilibrium has been well and truly scrambled, head next door to the contemplative spaces of the Koishikawa Kōrakuen park for a dose of serenity.

Laforet Museum Harajuku
Tel: (03) 3475 3127 (info)
This museum, on the 6th floor of the teenybopper fashionista Mecca that is Laforet department store, is a gallery or performance space depending on the event. Small film festivals, art installations and launch parties are held here regularly - after browsing the art-as-streetwear on the floors below, check out art-as-art upstairs.
Web: www.lapnet.jp/index.html

Leica Ginza Salon
Tel: (03) 6215 7070 (info)
Exhibiting the outstanding work of up-and-coming photographers and long-time professionals, this clean, minimalist salon remains one of the best photography galleries in the area.
Web: en.leica-camera.com/culture/galeries/gallery_tokyo

Love Hotel Hill
Around the top of Dōgenzaka is the highest concentration of love hotels in Tokyo. While ostensibly a place for amorous couples, keep it in mind as a good place to crash if you're out late clubbing in the area; rates are pretty reasonable for overnight stays.

Meguro Parasitological Museum
Tel: (03) 3716 1264 (info)
Those inclined to stifling shrieks upon encountering a spider will not find this museum to their liking but, for others, it's gruesomely fascinating. One of the more impressive exhibits is a nearly 9m-long tapeworm extracted from an unfortunate host. Kids will get a kick out of this place, and the gift shop teems with cute (creepy?) keepsakes.
Web: kiseichu.org/english.aspx

Meiji-jingū
Tel: (03) 3379 5511 (info)
On the grounds of Meiji-jingū, Meiji-jingū-gyoen, is a beautiful garden created by Emperor Meiji as a gift to the Empress Shōken. There's also a Treasure Museum on the grounds, displaying some imperial artifacts, such as ceremonial clothing worn by the emperor and empress.
Web: www.meijijingu.or.jp/english/index.html

Mori Art Museum
Tel: (03) 5777 8600 (info)
Past exhibitions at this consistently well-curated contemporary arts museum have ranged from a comprehensive exhibition of contemporary African art to a huge, walk-through installation by Kusama Yayoi. Museum admission also gets you into the spectacular 360-degree city views of Tokyo City View (and vice versa).
Web: www.mori.art.museum/eng/index.html

Museum Of Maritime Science
Tel: (03) 5500 1111 (info)
This is one of Tokyo's better museums, containing four floors of excellent displays with loads of detailed models, lots of hands-on exhibits that kids will love, and a pool on the roof where, for around ¥100, they can wreak havoc with radio-controlled boats and submarines.
Web: www.funenokagakukan.or.jp/index_e.html

National Diet Building
Tel: (03) 3581 3111 (info)
When the Diet is not in session, you can take free 60-minute tours (tel: 5521 7445) of this government hall, completed in 1936. Its structure was meant to combine the modern styles of both Asian and European architecture.
Web: www.sangiin.go.jp/eng/index.htm

National Institute for Nature Study
Tel: (03) 3441 7176 (info)
Prosaic in name but perfect in nature, this garden (known as Shizen Kyōiku-en in Japanese) is one of Tokyo's least known and most appealing getaways. It preserves the city's original flora in undisciplined profusion. Take a walk on Tokyo's wild side through woods and swamps, in this haven for bird-watchers, botanists and those overdosing on urban rhythms.
Web: www.ins.kahaku.go.jp/english/english.html

National Museum of Emerging Science And Innovation
Tel: (03) 3570 9151 (info)
Kids will love the engaging exhibits at this science museum, where most displays have excellent explanations in English and English-speaking guides fill in the blanks. There's the spectacular planetarium (buy tickets for a show as soon as you arrive), demonstrations of robots and opportunities to interact with them, and tons of exhibits about space, medicine and the environment.
Web: www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/index_e.html

National Museum of Modern Art
Tel: (03) 5777 8600 (info)
The National Museum of Modern Art has a magnificent collection of Japanese art from the Meiji period onwards. Your ticket (hold on to the stub) gives you free admission to the nearby Crafts Gallery, which houses ceramics, lacquerware and dolls.
Web: www.momat.go.jp/english/

National Museum of Western Art
Tel: (03) 3828 5131 (info)
It may seem odd coming all this way just to check out Rodin sculptures and Le Corbusier architecture, but the Museum of Western Art can be well worth a stop during its frequent visiting exhibits. Check local listings for what's on during your visit; there are often extra admission fees for special exhibitions.
Web: www.nmwa.go.jp/en/

National Science Museum
Tel: (03) 3822 0114 (info)
Renovations in recent years have made this museum more user-friendly for foreigners, with interpretive English signage throughout. The interactive exhibits are great fun for kids, especially those that allow clambering. Between the dinosaur displays here and the animals at Ueno Zoo, this is an excellent outing for children.
Web: www.kahaku.go.jp/english/

Nekobukuro
Tel: (03) 3980 6111 (info)
For Tokyoites who may not have the time nor space to keep their own pets, Nekobukuro provides a venue for short-term cuddling with surrogate cats. Creep up to the 8th floor of the Ikebukuro branch of Tōkyū Hands to get in on the kitten action.

New Otani Japanese Garden
This stunning 400-year-old Japanese garden on the grounds of the New Otani Hotel is worth a stop if traditional landscapes are your thing. Though the garden is open to the public, the hotel doesn't go out of its way to make it accessible. The easiest way to find it is via the first floor of the hotel's Garden Court shopping complex.
Web: www.newotani.co.jp/en/group/garden/index.html

Ōkura Shūkokan
Tel: (03) 3583 0781 (info)
Surrounded by a small but well-populated sculpture garden, this museum has an impressive collection of lacquer writing boxes, scrolls, ancient sculptures and several national treasures. The two-storey museum, whose collection is rotated seasonally, is definitely worth a look if you're on this side of town.

Ōta Memorial Art Museum
Tel: (03) 3403 0880 (info)
Leave your shoes in the foyer and pad in slippers through this museum to view its stellar collection of ukiyo-e (wood-block prints), which includes works by masters like Hiroshige and Hokusai. There's an extra charge for special exhibits. The museum is up the hill on a narrow road behind Laforet; there's a clear map on the museum's website.
Web: www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp/english.html

Parco Museum
Tel: (03) 3477 5873 (info)
This progressive gallery exhibits works by leading international artists and high-profile locals. Photography, installation and graphic design figure prominently, and if the current exhibition does nothing for you, you can check out the edgier Wall Gallery on the same floor.

Prada Aoyama
Tel: (03) 6418 0400 (info)
Of course you could shop here, but you can also ogle the gorgeous, convex glass bubbles of the exterior. Designed by Herzog & de Meuron, this is one of Aoyama's sexier organic-looking structures.

Roppongi Hills Tel: (03) 6406 6000 (info) This city within a city has it all, including public gardens and spectacular architecture. Shops and restaurants are topped off with the excellent high-rise Mori Art Museum and the luxurious Virgin Toho Cinemas. Web: www.roppongihills.com/en/

Sensō-Ji
Tel: (03) 3842 0181 (info)
With its pagoda and shrines nearby, Sensōji is one of Tokyo's most popular sights. It lies in the heart of Asakusa and serves as a community temple. As you reach Hōzōmon, the second gate leading into the temple itself, have a look at the Five-Storey Pagoda to the left, the second-tallest in Japan.

Shinjuku-Gyōen
Tel: (03) 3350 0151 (info)
Dating back to 1906, this downtown park provides the perfect escape from winter cold, as it boasts a hothouse full of exotic tropical plants, allegedly even including peyote! There's also a French garden and a pond full of giant carp. Keep this park in mind when you're exhausted by all that busy Shinjuku has to offer.
Web: www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen/english/index.html

Shiseido Gallery
Tel: (03) 3572 3901 (info)
Open since 1919, this gallery is one of the oldest in the neighbourhood. Showing an ever-changing selection of art, its exhibitions lean more towards the experimental and are well worth a look.
Web: www.shiseido.co.jp/e/gallery/html/

Shitamachi History Museum
Tel: (03) 3823 7451 (info)
Learn some games and try on clothes in the style of Edo's Shitamachi, the plebeian downtown quarter of old Tokyo. Hands-on or walk-in exhibits include a sweet shop, the home and business of a copper-boiler maker and a tenement house (don't forget to take off your shoes).

Sōgetsu Kaikan
Tel: (03) 3408 1126 (info)
The avant-garde Sōgetsu School of Ikebana, whose philosophy is that ikebana (Japanese flower arrangement) can go beyond its traditional roots, offers ikebana classes in English. Stop by the Sōgetsu Kaikan building for a look at current ikebana exhibits or to enquire about classes.
Web: www.sogetsu.or.jp/english/index.html

Sony Building
Tel: 3573 2371 (info)
Though essentially a Sony showroom, this place has fascinating hands-on displays of Sony's latest gizmos and gadgets, and some that have yet to be released. Although there's often a wait, kids (and gamer types) love the free video and virtual-reality games on the 6th floor.
Web: www.sonybuilding.jp/e/index.html

Spiral Building
Tel: (03) 3498 1171 (info)
Its asymmetrical, geometric shape may not look very sinuous on the outside, but the Spiral Building's name will make more sense upon entry. The 1st-floor gallery features changing exhibits, shows, dining and live music. Check out the shop on the 2nd floor for art books, jewellery, washi and stylishly designed loot.

Sunshine International Aquarium
Tel: (03) 3989 3466 (info)
Boasting the distinction of being the highest aquarium in the world, this high-rise water world has tanks full of electric eels, sharks and other intriguing sea life. Also living here are some incongruous land-lubbin' critters as well, like lemurs. The building is full of stimulating stuff for kids, such as a planetarium, shopping mall and food-themed amusement park.

Sunshine Starlight Dome
Tel: (03) 3989 3475 (info)
We may be in down-to-earth Ikebukuro but some of us are looking at the stars. Alas, the planetarium's show is narrated in Japanese, but the visuals are spectacular enough to lift you out of this earthly end of Tokyo.

Taikokan
Tel: (03) 3842 5622 (info)
It's tellingly human that the vast majority of us can't resist the temptation to bang a gong, given half the chance. Luckily for our percussive tendencies, this drum museum makes its instruments fair game unless they're marked with a red dot. From taiko (traditional Japanese drums) to African finger-harps, this museum displays examples of drums from around the world.

Tepco Electric Energy Museum
Tel: (03) 3477 1191 (info)
This is one of Tokyo's better science museums, offering seven floors of dynamic exhibitions on every conceivable aspect of electricity and its production. There are innumerable hands-on displays and an excellent, free English hand-out that explains everything.

Tobacco & Salt Museum
Tel: (03) 3476 2041 (info)
This unusual little museum has detailed exhibits on the labour-intensive methods of salt production practised in premodern Japan. On the tobacco topic, find vintage lighters, cigarette packs and advertisements illustrating the history of tobacco. While there's little English signage, much of the material is self-explanatory.

Tōgō-Jinja
Tel: (03) 3403 3591 (info)
This small shrine was built as a memorial to Admiral Tōgō Heihachiro, who led a pivotal battle against the Russians in 1905. These days, the shrine grounds are the venue for a flea market on the 1st, 4th and 5th Sunday of each month. Wares on sale include vintage kimono, antiques and curios. The market usually winds down around 15:00.

Tokyo Big Sight
Tel: (03) 5530 1111 (info)
Odaiba is full of oddball architecture and Tokyo Big Sight (officially known as Tokyo International Exhibition Hall) is no exception - appropriate, since it's the semi-annual venue for Tokyo's coolest design festival, Design Fiesta. Look for the upside-down pyramids of the conference tower rising above the exhibition complex.
Web: www.bigsight.jp/english/

Tokyo Dome
Tel: (03) 5800 9999 (info)
A trip to a Japanese ballpark is truly a cultural experience in baseball-mad Japan. Fans in matching happi (half-coats) perform synchronised cheers, and entire sections of the extremely well-mannered crowd often wind up singing in unison. Tokyo Dome is the home turf of Japan's most popular team, the Yomiuri Giants.
Web: www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/

Tokyo International Forum
Tel: (03) 5221 9000 (info)
Designed by architect Rafael Viñoly, the forum looks like a fantastic glass ship plying the urban waters of central Tokyo. Largely used for conventions and meetings, the cantilevered spaces and plaza also house a library, art gallery, cafés and shops.
Web: www.t-i-forum.co.jp/english

Tokyo Joypolis
Tel: (03) 5500 1801 (info)
Joypolis is Sega's high-tech playland for overstimulating your kids, or yourself. Your visit here will be full of nonstop action, with crazy indoor roller coasters, video games and virtual-reality rides.

Tokyo Metropolitan Children's Hall
Tel: (03) 3409 6361 (info)
This place has six floors of fun activities for children, and best of all, it's free! On weekends, the rooftop playground is open for romping around. But every day, there are age-appropriate art projects, story-telling and music-making, and lots of creative indoor play areas.
Web: www.fukushihoken.metro.tokyo.jp/jidou/English/index.html

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices
Tel: (03) 5321 1111 (info)
Known as Tokyo Tochō, these colossal towers designed by Tange Kenzō comprise Tokyo's bureaucratic heartland. From the amphitheatre-like Citizen's Plaza below, check out the architecture and complex symmetry of the towers. Then whiz up to the twin observation decks, over 200m above urban Shinjuku, for a look at Tokyo below.

Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art
Tel: (03) 3823 6921 (info)
The Tokyo Met has several galleries that run temporary displays of contemporary Japanese art. Galleries feature all manner of Western-style art and Japanese-style works such as sumi-e (ink-brush painting) and ikebana. Apart from the main gallery, the rental galleries are curated by the artists and collectives who rent them, so exhibitions are a mixed bag.
Web: www.tobikan.jp

Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography
Tel: (03) 3280 0099 (info)
Japan's first large-scale museum devoted entirely to photography, this wonderfully curated space is comprised of several galleries. The emphasis is on Japanese photography, but international work is also well represented. As you enter Yebisu Garden Place, the museum is at the very back, towards the right.
Web: www.syabi.com/index_eng.shtml

Tokyo National Museum
Tel: (03) 3822 1111 (info)
This showcase of Japanese and Asian art and artefacts is the crown jewel of Ueno Park museums. Mull over your visit with a stroll in the peaceful Tokugawa Shōgun Cemetery, behind the museum.
Web: www.tnm.jp

Tokyo Tower
Tel: (03) 3433 5111 (info)
Although it might play second fiddle to Roppongi Hills' 52nd-floor Tokyo City View, Tokyo Tower still affords a great 360-degree view of the city, best appreciated at night. It retains a sort of oldster charm next to the architectural wonders that have succeeded it. A Wednesday night attraction is live music on the main observatory.
Web: www.tokyotower.co.jp/english

Tōshōgū
Tel: (03) 3822 3455 (info)
Established in 1627, this shrine has the distinction of being one of the few extant early Edo structures, having survived the Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923, WWII destruction and other historical disasters. The intricate decoration and the architecture of the shrine, typical to other Tōshōgū shrines throughout Japan, and the a-typical copper lanterns lining the path, are well worth the price of admission.

Toyota Amlux
Tel: (03) 5391 5900 (info)
Toyota's Auto Salon features concept cars and virtual-reality driving experiences, which are only two aspects of this fascinating showroom for the mechanically minded. It's a six-storey multimedia extravaganza, with short movies, aerodynamic architecture and visions of vehicular beauty everywhere. There's an English-language floor guide available.
Web: www.amlux.jp/english/access/index.html

Tsukiji Fish Market
Tel: (03) 3541 2640 (info)
Tsukiji keeps market hours, so come early for the best action - 03:00 is when it opens and the fish are hauled in, but even around 08:00 you can still get a feel for the sheer scale and energy of this phenomenal fish market.
Web: www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm

Watari Museum of Contemporary Art
Tel: (03) 3402 3001 (info)
Known as the Watarium, this place showcases lots of brilliant conceptual and performance art, with visiting Scandinavians choreographing ballets involving vacuum-cleaners, and resident Japanese embalming themselves with glue. Ergo, lots of cutting-edge contemporary art can be found here, especially mixed-media art installations.
Web: www.watarium.co.jp

Yasukuni-Jinja
Tel: (03) 3261 8326 (info)
Yasukuni-jinja, the perennial fly-in-the-chardonnay in Japan-Asia relations, is the 'Peaceful Country Shrine' and a memorial to Japan's victims of war. No wonder it invites controversy. Politics aside, it has a beautiful, contemplative inner sanctum in the style of ancient Ise shrines - a stark contrast to the uyoku (right-wing activists) shouting their rhetoric outside.
Web: www.yasukuni.or.jp/english

Yayoi Museum & Takehisa Yumeji Museum
Tel: (03) 5689 0462 (info)
These two charming brick museums focus mostly on illustrations from popular art, books and other precursors to Japan's manga tradition. The work represents graphic art from the Meiji, Taishō and Shōwa periods, including some Japanese-style Art Deco illustrations. The museums are on a side street facing the northeastern end of Tokyo University.

As any Tokyo-ite knows, you are what you buy. Shopping defines this city. The sacred shrines in this consumer culture are the opulent depāto (department stores). They are pervasive, irresistible and omnipotent - odds are you'll leave with a radio-controlled robotic dog tucked under your arm.

109
Tel: (03) 3477 5111 (info)
Shibuya 109 is the department store selling the trends du jour of Shibuya's youth culture, whether it's the minidresses in blindingly saturated colours for the gyaru set or the bunched-up ankle socks the schoolgirls are so fond of pairing with their tiny skirts.

Ameyoko Arcade
Ameya-yokochō, or Ameyoko, is one of the only old-fashioned outdoor markets in Tokyo. Located at 4 Ueno, Taitō-ku, it's famous as a post-WWII black market and even now retains that throwback feel. Merchants call out to attract customers and open-air stalls display dried seafood, herbs and mushrooms. The Ameyoko Center Building contains stalls selling imported spices, produce and herbs from mainland Asia, and there are a few bargains on clothing and shoes in the area.

Aoyama Book Center
Tel: (03) 3479 0479 (info)
The beautifully remodelled Roppongi-dōri branch of Aoyama Book Center is a prime spot for night owls, with a great international selection of reads and a carefully chosen collection of foreign art books. There's another branch nearby in the Roppongi Hills West Walk.

Atelier Magic Theater
Tel: (03) 3478 5534 (info)
Run by three friends who craft jewellery in their studio, this shop sells bohemian-style work reflecting themes and patterns in nature. The jewellery lines range from plain-silver designs to sculptural work incorporating stones, wood and gold. Custom orders can also be arranged.
Web: www.magic-theater.org

Axis Building
Tel: (03) 3587 2781 (info)
Salivate over some of Japan's most innovative interior design at this Roppongi design complex. Of the 20 or so galleries and retail shops selling fabrics, furniture and art books, one highlight is ceramics specialist Kisso associated with the kaiseki (multicourse Japanese meals) restaurant of the same name.

Beams
Tel: (03) 5368 7300 (info)
The Beams chain has spread across Japan and over to Hong Kong, but all the best of Beams - from basic to superstylish men's and women's clothes, accessories, cool housewares and a gallery - has been concentrated into the seven floors of this Shinjuku shop.
Web: www.beams.co.jp/beams_e

Book Off
Tel: (03) 5775 6818 (info)
Find a huge selection of new and gently-used, barely-bruised manga here. Budget collectors should head for the shelves of around ¥110 (!) manga. This branch is on Meiji-dōri, north of Laforet, but Book Off shops are scattered all over Tokyo.

Decks Tokyo Beach
Tel: (03) 3599 6500 (info)
Fashioned after a beachside boardwalk, Decks Tokyo Beach is split into two sides: the Seaside Mall and Island Mall. Both house shopping and dining, and this is also where you'll find the indoor amusement park, Tokyo Joypolis.
Web: www.odaiba-decks.com/info_en

Don Quijote
Tel: (03) 5291 9211 (info)
Meet Don Quijote, Tōkyū Hands' trashy cousin. In Kabukichō, the fluorescent-lit corner shop is filled to the brink with weird loot. Chaotic piles of knockoff electronics and designer goods sit alongside sex toys, fetish costumes and packaged foods. They have quite a presence in Tokyo, though not all shops are open 24 hours.
Web: www.donki.com/index_en.php?lang=en

Evisu Tailor
Tel: (03) 3710 1999 (info)
In the early '90s, the detail-obsessed founder of Evisu began producing jeans the old-fashioned way, using rescued looms and weaving methods, helping to spawn the Japanese selvedge denim craze. At Evisu Tailor you can choose the pair you want and have the Evisu logo custom-painted on, or discreet denim-wearers can opt to go logoless.
Web: www.evisu.com

Frapbois
Tel: (03) 5459 2625 (info)
Frapbois is all the rage among young Japanese fashionistas. Frapbois designs have a free-flowing hippie aesthetic and are worth a look to gauge which way the trend is blowing.
Web: www.frapbois.jp

Fuji-Torii
Tel: (03) 3400 2777 (info)
This reliable antique dealer has been in the business since 1948 and stocks everything from exquisite kutani (regional ceramics featuring striking enamel designs) to inexpensive modern wood-block prints. It has an especially good selection of beautiful byōbu (antique folding screens).
Web: www.fuji-torii.com

Haibara
Tel: (03) 3272 3801
Even Haibara's business cards are made from exquisite paper. Find gorgeous, high-quality washi and tiny treasures such as wallets, hand mirrors and mobile phone accessories made from printed paper in this jewellery box of a paper shop at 2-7-6 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku.

Hakuhinkan Toy Park
Tel: (03) 3571 8008 (info)
One of Tokyo's most famous toy stores, this 'toy park' is crammed to the rafters with dolls, action figures, squawking video games, seas of colourful plastic and the softest plush toys ever. Hakuhinkan also harbours child-friendly restaurants and even a theatre in this huge children's attention-deficit paradise.
Web: www.hakuhinkan.co.jp/contents/english.html

Hanae Mori building
Tel: (03) 3423 1448 (info)
In Harajuku, the basement of the Hanae Mori building has more than 30 antique shops hawking everything from over-the-hill kewpie dolls to cloisonné bracelets and antique obi ornaments.

Hashi Ginza Natsuno
Tel: (03) 3569 0952 (info)
Look out for this narrow shopfront in Ginza if you'd like to add some hashi (chopsticks) to your stash of souvenirs. Ginza Natsuno stocks a staggering array of hashi, from inexpensive, colourful children's sets to hand-carved pairs costing thousands of yen. Lovely chopstick rests, ceramics and decorations fill out every other corner of usable space.

Isetan
Tel: (03) 3352 1111 (info)
In addition to having a stunning food basement, Isetan offers a free service called I-club, matching English-speaking staff to visiting shoppers; the membership desk is on the 7th floor of the Isetan annexe building. While you're there take a peek at the current exhibition in the 5th-floor art gallery.

Issey Miyake
Tel: (03) 3423 1407 (info)
Anarchic but wearable conceptual fashion continues to flow from Issey Miyake. At the cluster of Aoyama shops along the south end of Omote-sandō, eye his famous pleated designs, or the A-POC garments - each made from a single piece of fabric. The gallerylike window displays are worth a look, after checking out the many-faceted Prada spaceship down the street.

Itōya
Tel: (03) 3561 8311 (info)
Nine floors of stationery-shop love await paper (and paperclip) fanatics at Itōya. In addition to a comprehensive collection of washi, there are Italian leather agendas, erasable pens in the season's coolest hues and even tenugui - beautifully hand-dyed, all-purpose traditional handkerchiefs.

Japan Sword
Tel: (03) 3434 4321 (info)
If Kill Bill revived a long-dormant childhood attraction to swords, this highly respected dealer has a beautiful showroom and lots of experience helping foreigners choose the right katana (sword) for their taste and budget. Priciest are the macabre tameshi-giri blades that have been 'used on humans'.

Japan Traditional Crafts Center
Tel: (03) 5954 6066 (info)
Apart from being a wonderful place to find high-quality souvenirs such as weavings, regional ceramics, washi (handmade paper) and wood work, this centre is a destination in its own right as a showcase for traditional crafts from all over Japan. Temporary exhibitions, demonstrations and classes are held on the 2nd floor.
Web: www.kougei.or.jp/english/center.html

Journal Standard
Tel: (03) 5367 0175 (info)
Browsing the corners and surfaces of this hip shop turns up all sorts of items to add style to your wardrobe. Collections here are smart but bohemian, and sizes tend toward the Japanese figure (ie, small). This is also a great place to end a shopping spree, as there's a lovely rooftop café on the 3rd floor.
Web: journal-standard.baycrews.co.jp

Kamawanu
Tel: (03) 3780 0182 (info)
This little shop in Daikanyama specialises in beautifully-dyed tenugui, those ubiquitous Japanese hand towels you can fold on your head at the sentō (public baths), use to genteelly pat the sweat off the back of your neck on the JR platform, or wrap your bentō (boxed meal) in to take with you for lunch. Colourful designs incorporate traditional abstract patterns and representations of natural elements.
Web: http://www.kamawanu.co.jp

Kasūkōbō
Tel: (03) 3479 3150 (info)
This open-air jewellery shop on a raised platform has an old-fashioned feel even while the tattooed dude kneeling behind the display cases exudes the casual air of the modern Ura-Hara denizen. Mostly sculpted silver jewellery with themes of lotuses, dragons and koi (carp), the pieces here are simultaneously fresh and modern.

Kite Museum
Tel: (03) 3271 2465 (info)
The Kite Museum, just behind Tokyu department store in Shibuya-ku, is one big reproof to all those rinky-dink kites with plain plastic sails, plywood frames and a Sunday driver at the end of the string. Most of the 4000 kites in the museum are traditional Japanese kites (edo nishiki-e dako) but there are some fine examples from China and other Asian countries.
Web: www.tako.gr.jp/eng/museums_e/tokyo_e.html

Kurofune
Tel: (03) 3479 1552 (info)
Kurofune, run for the past quarter-century by a friendly American collector, carries an awesome treasure trove of Japanese antiques. Correspondingly awesome amounts of cash are necessary for acquiring some of the items, such as painstakingly constructed Edo-period tansu (Japanese chests of drawers), but serious antique connoisseurs are well-advised to have a look.
Web: www.kurofuneantiques.com

Laox
Tel: (03) 3253 7111 (info)
The multilingual staff at this duty-free Laox located at 1-2-9 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku, will help you figure out whether the voltage on your new superjuicer is compatible with your home voltage before you lug it on the plane. This huge chain, selling discounted electrical equipment, has very competitive prices. There's another duty-free Laox nearby.

Mandarake
Tel: (03) 3477 0777 (info)
The Shibuya branch of Mandarake stocks a range of new manga and also boasts performances by real, live cosplay (costume-play) kids in full-on anime character drag. Avid fans should also make the trek to Mandarake's huge flagship store in Nakano, with three floors packed with all manner of new and used manga, anime, games and character-related collectibles.
Web: www.mandarake.co.jp

Marui Young
Tel: (03) 3354 0101 (info)
You can't swing a coat hanger in Shinjuku without hitting a Marui (look for the Marui logo: OIOI), as there's a passel of its speciality branches here. Marui Young is the place to start if you want to buy Goth-Lolita garb with the local whitest-shade-of-pale girls.

Matsuya
Tel: (03) 3567 1211 (info)
A boon for foreign visitors, Matsuya offers the works with packaging and international shipping service, tax-exemption assistance and useful, if haphazard, in-store English-speaking guides. Don't forget to take a peek at Matsuya's art gallery on the 7th floor and, in the summer, the rooftop beer garden.

Mikimoto Pearl
Tel: (03) 3535 4611 (info)
Founded in 1899, Mikimoto Pearl was founded by the self-made Mikimoto Kokichi. At an early age he became fascinated with pearl divers and later developed the cultured pearl, building Mikimoto into the most famous of Tokyo's pearl shops. The store is located right next door to Wakō department store in Ginza.
Web: www.mikimoto.com/jp

Mitsukoshi
Tel: (03) 3562 1111 (info)
Tokyo's oldest department store was originally modelled on that London bastion of commerce, Harrods. Mitsukoshi is a posh, polished leviathan filled to the gills with tempting wares. Look for the Mitsukoshi lion at the corner entrance, a popular local meeting spot. There's also the original store in Nihombashi.

Muji
Tel: (03) 5208 8241 (info)
Mujirushi Ryōhin - literally, 'no-name brand' - is the paradoxical designer label that took Japan, then Paris, London and Hong Kong by storm. Everything is reasonably priced and simply designed, from tea sets to toddler clothing and travel gear, and its clothing has an effortless, clean style. This is the flagship store, but you'll find other branches all over Tokyo.

Odakyū
Tel: (03) 3342 1111 (info)
The 16-floor behemoth of a department store that sits atop Shinjuku Station, Odakyū contains several restaurant floors, high-end boutiques and low-budget accessories shops, as well as just about anything you'd need to live inside the station for the next ten years.

Ohya Shobō
Tel: (03) 3291 0062 (info)
You could lose yourself for hours in this splendid, musty old bookshop specialising in ukiyo-e ('floating world' prints) and ancient maps. The friendly staff can help you find whatever particular piece of antiquated trivia your heart desires.
Web: www.ohya-shobo.com

On Sundays
Tel: (03) 3470 1424 (info)
Connected to Watari Museum of Contemporary Art, On Sundays carries an eclectic collection of avant-garde art for sale. It has a humongous selection of funky to classic postcards, and a marvellous array of functional arthouse objects, such as purses in the shapes of origami balloons and Scandinavian-style office accoutrements. In the basement is a wonderful café/bookshop.
Web: www.watarium.co.jp

Oriental Bazaar
Tel: (03) 3400 3933 (info)
Carrying a wide-ranging selection of antiques and souvenirs at very reasonable prices, Oriental Bazaar is a great spot for last-minute, one-stop gift shopping. Among the wares are fans, folding screens, pottery, porcelain and yukata (cotton kimono). The branch at Narita Airport opens at 07:30 if you need to offload some yen pre-departure.

Sofmap
Tel: (03) 3253 9255 (info)
Crafty marketing, ruthless discounting and a staff of tech geeks have helped Sofmap sprout more than a dozen branches within Akihabara alone. This company rules the cut-price computer world with a silicon fist. Each shop specialises in new and used Macs, PCs and other cybergoodies.

Sunshine City
Tel: (03) 3989 3331 (info)
Billed as a 'city in a building', Sunshine City is another sprawling shopping centre where, for a small fee, you can get catapulted in a speeding elevator to the 60th-floor observatory to peer out across the Tokyo skyline. If you're lucky, you might catch a glimpse of Mt Fuji beyond the haze.

Takashimaya
Tel: (03) 3211 4111 (info)
In Nihombashi Takashimaya is one of the more venerable old establishments with palatial architecture. Primly-dressed, white-gloved attendants operate the old-fashioned lifts and bow demurely as you arrive and depart; take the lift to the rooftop patio, where you can bring your bentō (boxed meal). There's another branch in Ginza and the enormous Takashimaya Times Square complex in Shinjuku.

Takumi Handicrafts
Tel: (03) 3571 2017 (info)
Takumi carries an elegant selection of toys, textiles, ceramics and other traditional folk crafts from around Japan. The shop also thoughtfully encloses information detailing the origin and background of any pieces you purchase.

Three Minutes Happiness
Tel: (03) 5459 1851 (info)
Three minutes' worth is guaranteed, but your mileage may vary. This discount shop at 3-5 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku, sells clothes out of decommissioned grocery-store freezers, and makes the shopping experience fun as well as cheap. Downstairs are clothes, shoes and accessories, while lurking upstairs are inexpensive homewares and kitchen knick-knacks.

Tōkyū Hands
Tel: (03) 5489 5111 (info)
Ostensibly a do-it-yourself store, Tōkyū Hands carries a comprehensive collection of everything you didn't know you needed, from blown-glass pens to chainsaws, tofu tongs to party supplies. The Takashimaya Times Square branch is probably the least maddening to shop in, but there are others in Shibuya and Ikebukuro.

Tolman Collection
Tel: (03) 3434 1300 (info)
For collectors keen on picking up some contemporary art, this well-established, estimable gallery represents a strong stable of printmakers both Japanese and foreign. Though the artists here exhibit a fairly broad range of styles ranging from abstract to representative, all of the work has a distinctly Japanese feel.
Web: www.tolmantokyo.com

Tora No Ana
Tel: (03) 5294 0123 (info)
Keep your eyes up and look for the cute illustrated tiger-girl on the top of this building, which has seven floors of manga and anime. Tora no Ana has other branches in Shinjuku and Ikebukuro.
Web: www.toranoana.co.jp

Uniqlo
Tel: (03) 3569 6781 (info)
Like Muji and the Gap, Uniqlo has made a name for itself by sticking to the basics. Offering inexpensive clothing with simple lines, this chain has opened over 80 stores in Tokyo. A convenient place to pop in for an extra set of cheap jeans or plain shirts.

Venus Fort
Tel: (03) 3599 0700 (info)
Venus Fort embodies a Japanese vision of a young woman's shopping paradise, in a building that mimics 17th-century Rome where the ceilings simulate the sky turning from day to night. With around 170 boutiques and restaurants all aimed at young women, this kitschy shopping centre also boasts the distinction of having Japan's biggest lavatory (64 stalls).
Web: www.venusfort.co.jp/multi/index_e.html

Yodobashi Camera
Tel: (03) 5209 1010 (info)
This megalith of a discount store is located on the east side of Akihabara Station, with a whopping nine floors of cameras, computer equipment and enough electronics for the most hardcore geek.

Yoshitoku
Tel: (03) 3863 4419 (info)
Dollmaker to the emperor, Yoshitoku has been in business since 1711. The dolls here at 1-9-14 Asakusabashi, Taitō-ku, are exquisitely crafted in silk and porcelain, dressed in sumptuous replicas of elaborate kimonos and accessories. It's possible to buy a small piece for around ¥2000. For the larger and more elaborate ones, unlace the purse strings.

Unless you're based in a five-star hotel with its own facilities, most short-term visitors will probably have to make do without their favourite sporting activities. A lot of people and not much land means a high demand for recreational space - and high prices and long waiting lists.

Martial Arts
You can stay with the more familiar forms of martial arts - karate, kendō , jūdō , aikidō - or try something a little more exotic, such as kyūdō (Japanese archery).

Swimming
Taking a swim in Tokyo can be costly and bound by unexpected rules. In the summer months, it's probably easier to head to the beaches of Miura-hantō and around Kamakura.

Relaxation
There's a very beautiful Japanese tradition of soaking your cares away: try a sento (public bath) or onsen (hot spring).

Eating is half the fun of being in Japan, and the adventurous foodie will be delighted to know that nihon ryori (Japanese food) is far more than the sushi, tempura and sukiyaki for which it is best known in other countries: there are over 20 different forms of Japanese cooking to sample.

Tokyo offers an uncommon array of accommodations options. You can find anything from a world-class luxury hotel boasting its own art museum to a budget ryokan (Japanese inn) with fragrant tatami (woven floor matting) and a communal Japanese bath.

Located about an hour out of town, Narita is the airport that you'll fly into from international destinations; Haneda handles domestic traffic. Three types of train run in and out of Tokyo: shinkansen ('bullet train') Japan Railways (JR) trains and private trains. The bullet trains are certainly exciting, but private trains are often a better bet for daytrips. If you don't want all the stress of watching out for your stop, try a bus - prices are comparable and they often run direct. You can hop on a ferry to domestic destinations like Kushiro on Hokkaido, Kochi and Tokushima on Shikoku, and Kokura in northern Kyushu.

Bus
Buses - about the same price as trains - ply the expressways between Tokyo and various other parts of the country. The buses will often run direct, so you can relax instead of watching for your stop. Overnight buses to Kyoto and Osaka, and direct buses to Nagoya, Nara and Kobe leave from Tokyo station. From Shinjuku station there are buses to the Fuji and Hakone regions.

Ferry
There are no international ferries direct to/from Tokyo. You can catch a ferry from Busan (South Korea) to Shimonoseki, and get a train, bus or ferry (from Shin-moji in Kitakyushu, Kyushu) on to Tokyo. Or you can catch the quicker hydrofoil from Busan to Fukuoka, and then a plane, shinkansen train, bus or ferry to Tokyo. If you're interested in getting to/from China, there are ferries connecting Shanghai to Osaka, Kobe and Nagasaki, and there's a weekly ferry from Kobe to Tanggu (near Tianjin). From Nagasaki, you can fly direct to Tokyo, or get an overnight bus to Osaka (where you can ride a shinkansen or bus to the capital). 'Bullet trains' and buses also run between Kobe and Tokyo. From Taiwan, there's a weekly boat to Okinawa, where a ferry connects to Tokyo. Domestic vessels also ply the waters from Tokyo to: Kushiro on Hokkaido; Kochi and Tokushima on Shikoku; and Kokura in northern Kyushu.

Plane
Tokyo is serviced by two major airports, Narita and Haneda. All international carriers, with the exception of China Airlines, fly to and from Narita. If you can forget its inconvenient location, Narita is an excellent airport with a host of services available to the traveller willing to seek them out. The bulk of domestic air traffic goes through Haneda. Fortunately, the two airports are connected by a regular bus service. Narita airport is 66km (40mi) from central Tokyo, which means that getting into town is going to take from 50 minutes to two hours, depending on your mode of transport. There is a train station directly beneath the terminal and lots of taxis.

Train
Arriving in Tokyo by train is a simple affair. Three types of train run in and out of Tokyo: shinkansen ('bullet train'), Japan Railways (JR) trains and private trains. Most of the major train lines terminate at Tokyo station on the JR Yamanote line. There are three shinkansen lines connecting Tokyo with the rest of Japan - check out the shinkansen timetable for more details. For day trips to areas such as Kamakura, Nikko, Hakone and Yokohama, private trains are usually the most convenient means of transport.

Once you get your head around the Tokyo train system, with its many different lines and systems, it's probably the best way to get around. Buses are frustrating: they often get gridlocked and the services end early. Taxis are exorbitantly expensive, and walking, although a fine way to explore within neighbourhoods, is difficult between them. Cycling would clearly be madness. Do as the locals do and stick to the train.

Bicycle
Unless you have a deathwish, don't even consider cycling on the Tokyo streets; most locals actually ride on the pavement. There are often piles of discarded bikes around railway stations, but don't be tempted; if it is stolen and you're pulled over by the police to have your serial number checked (which often happens), you may find yourself in trouble.

Bus
Many Tokyo residents and visitors spend a considerable amount of time in the city without ever using the bus network. This is partly because the train services are so good and partly because the buses are much more difficult to use. In addition, buses are at the mercy of Tokyo's sluggish traffic flow. Services also tend to finish fairly early in the evening, making buses a pretty poor alternative all round.

Taxi
The frustrations, jams and high tolls that plague the driver in Tokyo may tempt you to try a taxi, but stick to the public transport system unless you are particularly plump of pocket.

Train
The Tokyo train system can seem a bit daunting at first. Many travellers' initial confusion arises from the fact that Tokyo is serviced by a combination of JR, private inner-city subway lines and private suburban lines. This sometimes necessitates switching between not just different trains but also different train systems. There are also 12 subway lines operated by two companies. The subway services are essentially the same and have good connections from one to the other, although they do operate under separate ticketing systems.

Tram
Tokyo has one solitary tram service still in operation. It doesn't really go anywhere of interest, but it does pass through a couple of areas that haven't been claimed by redevelopment.

GMT/UTC +9 (Standard Time)

Metric

100V 50Hz

+81

Official: Japanese

Japanese Yen (¥)

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