Art Scene China
Tel: 021 6437 0631 (info)
Contemporary Chinese art is exhibited over two floors in this lovingly restored 1930s villa.
Hidden away in a quiet alley off West Fuxing Rd, the white-painted house's French Concession
interior is simple and uncluttered, with a pleasant garden and an absorbing range of
contemporary Chinese art work.
Web:
www.artscenechina.com
Bund Sightseeing Tunnel
Tel: 021 5888 6000 (info)
A 647m voyage with entertainment from budget effects, garish lighting and dreadful props, the
Bund Sightseeing Tunnel is a transport mode that guarantees to get you to Pǔdōng in
an altered state. Stepping from the trains at the terminus, visitors are visibly nonplussed,
their disbelief surpassed only by those with return tickets. A combined ticket includes the
excellent China Sex Culture Museum and other attractions Pǔdōng-side.
Century Park
Shanghai's largest park at the end of Century Ave in the east is strong on hard edges and
synthetic lines, but there's a great central lake with boat hire, and bicycle hire for getting
around all the paths. Children will enjoy themselves, and the spacious paved area between the
Science and Technology Museum and the park is great for flying kites (for sale from hawkers)
and rollerblading.
Changfeng Ocean World
Tel: 021 6233 8888 (info)
Adults may find this subterranean aquarium dank, dark, dingy and dear, but the little people
will adore the clownfish and shark tunnel. Attention parents with strollers - the lift
bypassing the slog down the stairs may or may not work.
China Sex Culture Museum
Tel: 021 5888 6000 (info)
A fascinating foray into the little-understood realm of Chinese sexuality and erotica. Among
the mating tortoises, copulating beasts and graphic jade phalluses, search out the knife that
raised eunuchs' voices to the correct register, the horrifying donkey saddle with the wooden
penis (used to punish 'licentious' women), and the special coins once used as quid pro quo in
China's brothels of yore. The exhibition doesn't dwell simply on erotica, but extends to
educational musings on China's creation myths, marriage customs, the sexual oppression of
women (including the old practice of foot binding), sex education, sexual health, video
presentations and a token tantric statuette or two.
Dino Beach
Tel: 021 6478 3333 (info)
Way down south in Minhang district, this popular summer place has a beach, a wave pool, water
slides and tube hire to beat the Shanghai summer heat and keeps going late. But it's
absolutely heaving at weekends.
Duolun Road Cultural Street
This nicely restored, if a little twee, street of fine old houses, just off North Sichuan Rd,
was once home to several of China's most famous writers (as well as several Kuomintang
generals), when the road was known as Doulean Rd. Today it is lined with art supply stores,
curio shops, galleries, teahouses and cafés, as well as statues of the writers Lu Xun and Guo
Moruo.
Formula One Grand Prix Off
Tel: 021 9682 6999 (info)
Every October, the Formula 1 circus comes to this impressive, state-of-the-art circuit 40
minutes northwest of the city centre. It's one of the most glamorous events on the Shanghai
calendar and tickets, from around 380 to around 4000, get snapped up very quickly. Book ahead
through the website, or visit a friendly ticket tout.
Web:
www.icsh.sh.cn
Gongqing Forest Park
Tel: 021 6574 0586 (info)
Most of Shanghai's synthetic parks can leave one cold, but this vast expanse of forested
parkland on the western shore of the Huangpu River is a leafy, wooded and tranquil slice of
countryside in town. This is about as wild as you get in Pǔxī, with nary a skyscraper
in sight. Aim to spend half if not the whole day picnicking and wandering around this huge
area, or hop into one of the buggies for express tours around the grounds. If you want to
spend the night in the park, there's the Gongqing Forest Resort.
Huangpu River Cruise
Tel: 021 6374 4461 (info)
The Huangpu River offers staggering views of the Bund and riverfront activity. Most tour boats
depart from the docks on the south end of the Bund, near East Jinling Rd, where tickets can be
purchased; popular 30-minute cruises also depart hourly from the Pearl Dock (Míngzhū
Mǎtoú; 1 Century Ave) in Lùjiāzuǐ.
Jade Buddha Temple
Tel: 021 6266 2668 (info)
Built between 1911 and 1918 in Song dynasty style, this active place of worship is one of
Shanghai's few Buddhist temples. But the large numbers of tourists it attracts make
contemplation difficult. The centrepiece of the temple is its 1.9m-high pale-green jade
Buddha. Visitors are not able to approach the statue, but can admire it from a distance. An
additional charge of around 10 is levied to see the statue (photographs aren't allowed). A
similarly elegant jade reclining Buddha can be found downstairs, opposite a much larger copy
in stone.
Jinjiang Amusement Park
Tel: 021 5493 7999 (info)
Roller coasters, rides and a huge Ferris wheel are all here in this amusement park. It's a bit
out of town, but easy to get to, as it has its own metro station.
Jinmao Tower
Tel: 021 5047 5101 (info)
In a city of dubious contemporary architecture, the colossal Jinmao Tower stands out for its
winning design, loosely inspired by a traditional Chinese subject, the pagoda. If you want to
see Shanghai in a splendid nutshell, travel in the elevators (moving at 9.1m/second) to the
88th-floor observation deck, accessed from the separate podium building to the side of the
main tower. Time your visit at dusk for both day and night views.
Web:
www.jinmao88.com
Longhua Temple & Pagoda
Tel: 021 6457 6327 (info)
Southwest of central Shanghai, close to the river, this is the oldest and largest monastery in
Shanghai. Said to date from the 10th century, it has been much renovated. Lónghuá refers to the pipal tree under which Buddha achieved enlightenment. The best time to visit the
temple is during the Longhua Temple Fair, held on the third day of the third month of the
lunar calendar, which is usually during April or May. A short walk north along Longhua Rd is
the Longhua Flower & Bird Market (Lónghuá Huāniǎo Shìchǎng), a relaxing stretch of
chirping crickets and bird song.
Lu Xun Former Residence
Tel: 021 5666 2608 (info)
Lu Xun buffs will adore ferreting around this simple three-floor domicile on lovely Shanyin
Rd, where an English-speaking guide can fill you in on all the bits and bobs, including a
clock displaying the exact time of Lu Xun's death and a painting hanging on the wall of the
writer's son, Zhou Haiying, as a baby. His books, though, now reside in Beijing. Don't
overlook wandering along Shanyin Rd and peeking into its lovely alleyways and traditional lòngtáng houses (for example at number 41-50, Lane 180, Shanyin Rd).
Lu Xun Memorial Hall
Tel: 021 6540 2288 (info)
An excellent museum, this modern hall charts the life and creative output of Lu Xun (China's
most celebrated modernist writer) with photographs, first editions, waxworks and the author's
vestments (including his fedora and lamb-skin lined coat) and personal effects. Detailed
English captions throughout. The museum bookshop sells Lu Xun's stories in English, French and
German.
Natural Wild Insect Kingdom
Tel: 021 5840 6950 (info)
Aimed at kids, this collection of creepy-crawlies includes an opportunity to handle some of
the hairy monsters. It's one that could be missed unless your kids have a special interest.
Oriental Pearl TV Tower
Tel: 021 5879 1888 (info)
Love it or hate it, this preposterous 468m-tall poured-concrete shocker of a tripod tower has
become a symbol of Pudong and of Shanghai's renaissance, even though it has long been
literally and stylistically eclipsed by the much superior Jinmao Tower and other skyscrapers
sprouting skywards. Despite having nothing original to say, the huge tower is dazzling when
illuminated at night and you can always join the queue for high-altitude views of Shanghai.
The tower is most notable for its excellent Shanghai History Museum. The tower's crude lines
are matched by an excruciating ticket system and recently rocketing prices.
Qibao
Tel: 021 6461 5208 (info)
The gǔzhèn (ancient town) of Qībǎo - literally 'Seven Treasures' - dates back
to the Northern Song dynasty (AD 960-1127). Easily reached from town, the ancient settlement
prospered during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Now, it's run by the quaintly named Shanghai
Qibao Ancient Town Tourism Exploitation Co. It's overrun with visitors, but is also littered
with traditional, historic architecture.
Qinci Yangdian Temple
Shanghai's largest Taoist temple is, perhaps surprisingly, located in Pudong (476 Yuanshen
Rd). It's worth a perusal for its massive trinity of Taoist gods in the Hall of the Three
Clear Ones (Sān Qīng Diàn), although the temple architecture is all recent (at the
southern end of the temple grounds are what appears to be older, semi-destroyed temple halls).
At the rear of the temple is the humungous Hall for the Storing of Scriptures (Cáng Jìng
Diàn) and up the stairs above the side halls is a huge glittering gathering of 61 gilded
Taoist generals.
Room with a View Gallery
Tel: 021 6352 0256 (info)
Art critic Wu Liang conceived of this trendy space atop a department store for showcasing
contemporary artworks and the output of up-and-coming artists. An accessible and successful
combination, the gallery doubles as an image-conscious loft-bar where the tried and trusted
blend of alcohol and art gets the nod from Bohemians city-wide.
Web:
ww.topart.cn
Shanghai Arts & Crafts Museum
Tel: 021 6437 2509 (info)
Repositioned as a museum, this arts and crafts institute displays traditional crafts such as
embroidery, paper cutting, lacquer work, jade cutting and lantern making. Watch paper cutting
and other traditional crafts being performed live by craftspeople and admire the wonderfully
wrought exhibits, from jade, through ivory to inkstones and beyond. It's hard not to suspect
that the collections were arranged to herd visitors through the overpriced ground-floor shops
(foreign exchange assisted). The highlight is quite possibly the building itself, built in
1905, and its ample lawn out back.
Shanghai Botanical Gardens
Tel: 021 5436 3369 (info)
The Botanical Gardens offer an escape from Shanghai's synthetic cityscape. The Tropicarium
gives you the chance to get close to tropical flora; take the lift to the 6th floor for an
impressive view of the gardens. Some of the flower arrangements are a little twee, but the
place is well-maintained and busy. On weekends, it's a popular place for couples to take
wedding photos.
Shanghai Gallery Of Art
Tel: 021 6321 5757 (info)
Shanghai's handiest (and perhaps trendiest) art gallery finds itself sandwiched between two
floors at Three on the Bund, which introduces you to Shanghai's effortless marriage of
contemporary art and
haute couture. For glimpses of high-brow and conceptual Chinese
art, sample this gallery's rarefied atmosphere and manifestly exclusive inclinations.
Web:
www.threeonthebund.com
Shanghai Museum
Tel: 021 6372 3500 (info)
Rocked slightly from its jealously guarded throne by the 2006 unveiling of Beijing’s tip-top
Capital Museum, the monarch of China's museum world remains one of Shanghai's highlight
sensations. Expect to spend half, if not most of, a day here. A primer of Chinese civilisation
recounted via 120,000 exhibits, the intelligently designed museum guides you through the pages
of Chinese history.
Shanghai Museum Of Contemporary Art (Moca Shanghai)
Tel: 021 6327 9900 (info)
A recent opening that has grabbed the bull by the horns on steering the world contemporary art
scene to Shanghai, this non-profit museum collection has an all-glass construction to maximise
natural sunlight (when it cuts through the constant clouds), a tip-top location in Renmin Park
and a fresh, invigorating approach to exhibiting contemporary international art works.
Shanghai Ocean Aquarium
Tel: 021 5877 9988 (info)
Education meets entertainment in this slick and intelligently designed aquarium that children
will love. Join them on a tour through the aquatic environments from the Yangzi River to
Australia, South America, the frigid ecosystems of the Antarctic and to the flourishing marine
life of coral reefs. The 155m-long underwater clear viewing tunnel has gobsmacking views.
Web:
www.aquarium.sh.cn
Shanghai Zendai Museum Of Modern Art (Shanghai Moma)
Tel: 021 5033 9801 (info)
This newish, small-scale museum delivers an invigorating shot to the arm to Shanghai's ever-
flexing art scene. The emphasis is on contemporary exhibitions in a highly modern art space;
the effect is a sophisticated and cool haven for fashionable aesthetes. Tours (in Chinese),
lectures, concerts and other activities are part of the overall production. Check their
website for details on current and forthcoming exhibitions.
Web:
www.zendaiart.com
Shanghai Zoo
Tel: 021 6268 7775 (info)
As Chinese zoos go, this is just about the best and it makes for a good day out for those with
kids in tow. There's a decent selection of beasts - from woolly twin-humped Bactrian camels to
spindly legged giraffe, gorillas, lions, lots of different monkeys, giant pandas and polar
bears - but some of the enclosures they're housed in are less than ideal.
Shanghai folk flock here to enjoy one of the city's most picturesque and well tended acreages
of green grass. Picnic-goers dive onto the lawns for a spot of sun, while electric tour
buggies whirr along shaded paths through old-growth woods every 10 to 15 minutes.
Song Qingling Mausoleum
Tel: 021 6474 7183 (info)
Despite its hard-edged communist layout, this green and well-tended park is excellent for a
stroll and for escaping the relentless Hóngqiáo skyline. Song Qingling herself is
interred in a low-key tomb here, but she is memorialised in the Song Qingling Exhibition Hall
straight ahead from the main entrance, which itself looks like a Chinese Imperial tomb.
Sun Yatsen's Former Residence
Tel: 021 6437 2954 (info)
China is awash with Sun Yatsen (Sun Zhongshan) memorabilia and this is one of several former
dwellings nationwide. Sun lived here on Rue Molière for six years from 1918 to 1924, supported
by overseas Chinese funds. The entry price gets you a brief tour of the house in English. The
two-storey house is set back from the street and is furnished as it was back in Sun's days,
though it was looted by the Japanese during WWII.
Taikang Rd Art Centre
This warren of shíkùmén architecture offers tranquil doses of genuine charm. A
community of art galleries, studios, pocket-sized wi-fi cafés, petite shops and boutiques -
the perfect antidote to Shanghai's oversized malls and intimidating skyscrapers. With families
still residing in neighbouring buildings, a community mood survives, while the area's relative
transport isolation has prevented it from being swamped by feral tour groups.
Xintiandi
It brought a stylish twist to the fêted French Concession, and this restaurant, bar,
entertainment and cultural complex quickly became an epicentre for fashionable alfresco diners
and well-heeled Shanghai shoppers - uniformed security was at hand to shoo-shoo the hobos and
keep a lid on downwardly mobile behaviour. The layout - divided by alleys (lòngtáng) and
pedestrianised lanes - is inviting, but Xintiandi is self-consciously trendy and cracks have
started to appear. The name Xīntiāndì - New Heaven and Earth - is little more than a
modern brand name and the locale has been calculatingly prettified, so don't expect any of the
creaking, rickety simplicity of the Old Town or the lived-in charm of the Taikang Rd Art
Centre.
Yuyuan Gardens & Bazaar
Tel: 021 6355 5025 (info)
With its shaded alcoves, glittering pools churning with carp, pavilions, pines sprouting
wistfully from rockeries, whispering bamboo, jasmine clumps, stony recesses and roving bands
of Japanese tourists, the Yuyuan Gardens are one of Shanghai's top-notch sights. With over
1000 visitors daily, securing an early morning visit is advisable. The adjacent bazaar is
great for a browse, if you can ignore the surrounding sales roar.
Web:
www.yuyuantm.com.cn
Shanghai is easy to get to. It is China's second-largest
international air hub (third-largest if you count Hong Kong) and if you can't fly direct, you
can go via Beijing or Hong Kong. With rail and air connections to places all over China,
ferries travelling up the Yangzi River, many boats along the coast, and buses to destinations
in adjoining provinces, you'll be hard pushed to find somewhere you can't get to.
Bus
Shanghai has a few long-distance bus stations; the most useful is probably Hengfeng Lu. It's a
13-hour trip to Beijing from this station.
Ferry
Boats are one of the fastest ways of leaving Shanghai and are often the cheapest. Ferries
travel up the Yangzi River and there are many boats that stop along the coast - although these
are probably an endangered species. There are also regular ships and ferries to Korea and
Japan.
Plane
Shanghai has two international airports and is a nexus for international flights. A new
airport opened in 1999 near Pudong, about an hour's drive from the city centre, handling most
international and some domestic flights. Buses and taxis connect this new airport to the city
centre and the second aiport, Hongqiao. There's also the Maglev, one of the world's fastest
trains, which speeds you into Pudong. Hongqiao airport is 18km (11mi) from the Bund and
reachable via bus, shuttle or taxi. It has some international and most domestic flights.
Departure tax is USD11.00 (international) and USD6.00 (domestic) - although there is a plan to
incorporate these into the ticket price. Both taxes are paid at the airport from which you
depart.
Train
Shanghai is at the junction of the Beijing-Shanghai and Beijing-Hangzhou train lines. Since
they branch off in various directions, many parts of the country can be reached by direct
train from Shanghai. Most trains arrive and depart from Shanghai station.
Shanghai isn't exactly a walker's paradise. There are some
fascinating areas to stroll around, but new road developments, building sites and shocking
traffic conditions conspire to make walking an exhausting, stressful and sometimes dangerous
experience. Travelling on buses can also be hard work; the routes, and particularly the stops,
are not easy to figure out and buses are packed at rush hour. The metro and light railway
system, on the other hand, work like a dream. Taxis are cheap and hassle-free as long as you
avoid the rush hours. As private cars become increasingly affordable to the new middle class,
traffic is becoming noticeably heavier, a trend that will only worsen. There is not enough
space for everyone at rush hour and from around 07:00 to 09:30 and 16:00 to 18:30 it's every
frail old man for himself. Cool aggression and elusive speed, along with a friendly smile,
keep things from getting ugly.
Bus
Local buses are hard work. During the rush hour and the weekends they are packed to the hilt
and virtually impossible to board. Stops can also be unpredictable: you may be helplessly
carried past your destination. Pickpockets are another drawback.
Car
Only residents can hire a car in Shanghai; besides, it's really not worth the hassle unless
you're familiar with the nightmare one-way system and the appalling conditions on the roads.
Taxi
Shanghai's Volkswagen taxis are reasonably cheap and easy to flag down, except during rush
hour. Only a few take credit cards. Most taxi drivers are surpisingly honest, but you should
always go by the meter.
Underground rail
Shanghai's subway system is a dream, and probably the best way to get around town. Trains are
fast, cheap, clean and easy, although they can be crowded at peak hour. The new Mag Lev
(Magnetic Levitation) line has started regular services between the city and Pudong airport.
The 30km (19mi) trip will take just eight minutes.
Walking
While there are some fascinating places to stroll through in Shanghai, new road developments,
building sites, jam-packed walkways and shocking traffic conditions conspire to make walking
in most areas an exhausting experience.